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[FurryNutz]

Ok, so do the ports come back after a power cycle and work? I do know that there is an issue with bridge mode and the DAP not passing an IP address from the main host router. This is what i see on mine and thought the first one I bought was bad so I returned it and go another...after talking with D-Link about it they said there was a problem in bridge mode...

[Eluder]

Nope, they're permanently dead, just tried a reset (using the button on the back of the DAP) and connecting it directly to my desktop PC, no connection to the DAP, ports are dead...

[FurryNutz]

Dang...leave the DAP unplugged for 30 seconds?

I wonder if there is something on the DAP or one of your LAN devices that could be causing the ports to fail...I've only used 2 devices on mine, Mac Book Pro and a xbox 360 at any one time...I don't have any more then that to connect...So my ports are ok.

What are the devices connected to the DAP normally on the ports?

I might ask D-Link to see if they can pull the one you sent back to them and see if they can find a cause for the ports going on on those units or an unit they got back from you. The only reason ports go bad is bad signals, over loaded maybe or bad cables or devices. Having this experience over 5 of these units with the same failure, there could be someone on the LAN side that's causing it...Honest opinion. 

[Eluder]

Considering the devices connected to the DAP have changed, I find it hard to believe it's anything, but the DAP.
Keep in mind, the DAP I have now which I modded was never used after receiving it via RMA until after you convinced me to do the easy mod.  With that in mind, before this specific DAP was ever turned on, I had swapped out my Xbox 360 and PS3 to the Xbox One and the PS4, and the only things ever connected to the DAP since its first use have been these two devices.
With every other DAP that failed on me, it was an Xbox 360, PS3 and the WD TV Live unit connected to it.
So that rules out the devices I've connected to it, and I'm not sure how a simple ethernet cable could cause the DAP to fail and only the DAP to fail while every other device connected using the same cables work just fine (ethernet wise).

[FurryNutz]

Has the WDTV always been connected as well? Even though you changed to new forms of XB and PS, This WDTV is still a constant.

I wish I had more info on who else is using this DAP as from me and AMPatrick. Patrick hasn't reported any issues like this nor have I. I presume if others exhibited issues like they they might have said something here or D-Link knows of the ones that haven't reported here in the forums. My first thought is that something on your system maybe causing this as this seems to be an issue only exhibited by you, and yes, there could be others. It's just that after all these units, same model, the failure is the same. I don't think these models are that bad unless there is a bad batch in your region. I presume there is some level to test before they get boxed so at minimum, these units do work out of the box.

I might ask D-Link to see what other kinds of behaviors might cause LAP ports to go bad...I would like to see if someone would take a look at your prior units to see why the ports failed.

Did you get a different model Bridge yet?

[FurryNutz]

I've asked D-Link to review this to see if they can offer up some info on any possible other reason why the LAN ports are failing. I hope we an maybe figure this one out. 

[AMPatrick]

Once a DAP-1533 has overheated and started generating a high error rate, adding the heat sinks probably won't help (even if the DAP still works - it'll only be a matter of time) - the damage will have already been done.  You need to check that the error counters stay at zero after the mod - this tells you that the chips have not been damaged by heat.

I mod'ed my DAP-1533 immediately when I received the warranty replacement unit from D-Link (of course I tested the replacement unit for a couple of minutes first).  So I was fairly certain the replacement unit was in good shape and had never suffered thermal damage.  I did check the error counters to insure they were staying at zero when I did the testing.

BTW: I have a SMART LG Television, a SMART Sony Blu-Ray player, and an Apple TV (v3) plugged into my thermally upgraded DAP-1533 which is being used as a bridge.  Since I did my thermal upgrade, I have had absolutely no problems, everything works, everything runs cool, and the error counters stay at zero even after several weeks of continuous operation.  I never have to "reboot" the DAP anymore - it just "keeps on truck'in".   I use the same ethernet cables as I was using when my original DAPs bricked themselves.

[Eluder]

@furry, no the wdtv live was never connected to this dap. I kept that separate via its own wifi adapted on my network. The only devices ever connected to this last dap was the Xbox One and the PS4. I know what you're saying furry, and it's an easy failure to reproduce on my side. All I need to do is push a lot of hd content to a device connected to the dap in a short period and the ports will fail. For example if I'm streaming a 1080p video that's over 10gb to my wdtv and I'm fast forwarding for a while, that almost always meant a failure to the dap which points to overheating. What I was doing recently was watching a lot of hd content from Netflix streamed to my Xbox One. Ya, I have a new dap, for some reason I bought another dlink, guess cause it was cheap ($30), the dap-1513. Haven't used it yet though.

@patrick, I did the mod off a fresh rma unit so there was never any usage of the device before completing the mod.

[FurryNutz]

Ok, after the ports fail, do they recover or does it brick the ports completely?

Patrick, I think the problem on his DAP is that the data flow going thru the LAN ports is failing to handle the flow. Can you check your DAP for any LAN port chip heat? I guess I should open mine and see if there is any other chip visible that maybe needs a heat mod. Let us know if you find anything. I have mine with me however I don't have my temp gun.

@furry, no the wdtv live was never connected to this dap. I kept that separate via its own wifi adapted on my network. The only devices ever connected to this last dap was the Xbox One and the PS4. I know what you're saying furry, and it's an easy failure to reproduce on my side. All I need to do is push a lot of hd content to a device connected to the dap in a short period and the ports will fail. For example if I'm streaming a 1080p video that's over 10gb to my wdtv and I'm fast forwarding for a while, that almost always meant a failure to the dap which points to overheating. What I was doing recently was watching a lot of hd content from Netflix streamed to my Xbox One. Ya, I have a new dap, for some reason I bought another dlink, guess cause it was cheap ($30), the dap-1513. Haven't used it yet though.

@patrick, I did the mod off a fresh rma unit so there was never any usage of the device before completing the mod.

[FurryNutz]

Patrick, Does one of the other follow chips get warm for you? Maybe Eluder can test this as well.

I see 3 other chips, 2x ESMT and 1x MxIC chip. Not sure if any one of these would be something to look at. I see the 2 black transformer blocks as well. Do these get warm or hot to the touch?

I'll try and run mine here today and see if I can feel anything. I presume that the amount of data flow is cause of concern here.

Once a DAP-1533 has overheated and started generating a high error rate, adding the heat sinks probably won't help (even if the DAP still works - it'll only be a matter of time) - the damage will have already been done.  You need to check that the error counters stay at zero after the mod - this tells you that the chips have not been damaged by heat.

I mod'ed my DAP-1533 immediately when I received the warranty replacement unit from D-Link (of course I tested the replacement unit for a couple of minutes first).  So I was fairly certain the replacement unit was in good shape and had never suffered thermal damage.  I did check the error counters to insure they were staying at zero when I did the testing.

BTW: I have a SMART LG Television, a SMART Sony Blu-Ray player, and an Apple TV (v3) plugged into my thermally upgraded DAP-1533 which is being used as a bridge.  Since I did my thermal upgrade, I have had absolutely no problems, everything works, everything runs cool, and the error counters stay at zero even after several weeks of continuous operation.  I never have to "reboot" the DAP anymore - it just "keeps on truck'in".   I use the same ethernet cables as I was using when my original DAPs bricked themselves.

[FurryNutz]

I've connected my DAP in bridge mode to my DIR-868L on single mode N 5Ghz. I don't think I have the bandwidth here for doing HD nor do i have my sources for streaming here so I'll have to test this again at home this weekend. Just streaming a movie from netflix is making the 2 main sinks warm however not hot. The 3 chips that don't have any heat sinks on them are cool or luke warm to the touch. No discernible heat felt with these chips nor the 2 transformer blocks.

I presume I need to shove some full HD raw content thru to see what else I can find.

Let me know if you can test this out some Patrick and what your findings or results are. I'll be home this weekend and see if I can drive some content thru the 1533.

[FurryNutz]

The 1513 will be a good test to see how it handles your devices connected and the HD content. I presume that there could be a possibility that buffering will be seen rather than a DAP failure since the ports on the 1513 are 100Mb and not 1000Mb and the WiFi connection speed maxes out at 300Mb and not 450Mb. So I presume there will be differences seen. Please test this 1513 and let us know your results...very interested to know what happens.

@furry, no the wdtv live was never connected to this dap. I kept that separate via its own wifi adapted on my network. The only devices ever connected to this last dap was the Xbox One and the PS4. I know what you're saying furry, and it's an easy failure to reproduce on my side. All I need to do is push a lot of hd content to a device connected to the dap in a short period and the ports will fail. For example if I'm streaming a 1080p video that's over 10gb to my wdtv and I'm fast forwarding for a while, that almost always meant a failure to the dap which points to overheating. What I was doing recently was watching a lot of hd content from Netflix streamed to my Xbox One. Ya, I have a new dap, for some reason I bought another dlink, guess cause it was cheap ($30), the dap-1513. Haven't used it yet though.

@patrick, I did the mod off a fresh rma unit so there was never any usage of the device before completing the mod.

[AMPatrick]

When I was doing the testing for which chips were to be provided the heat sinks, I streamed HD video to insure the D-Link was working as hard as I could drive it.  Turns out that the chip connected to the LAN ports was the one that got the hottest - by far - and this is why I used an over-sized heatsink on this chip.  I also noted that DLink used an over-sized thermal pad for this chip.

Because I have epoxied the heat sinks onto the chips, I can't get the chip numbers anymore.  The three places where I glued heat sinks were the ones that got the hottest and caused "an ouch reaction" if I touched them with my finger for too long.  All the other chips and other components (transformers, etc.) were simply lukewarm.

After the upgrade (and with the cover off), all of the chips seem to be at a reasonable temperature when streaming HD video although the three places where I epoxied the heatsinks do run a little warmer - but not hot enough to cause "an ouch reaction" when I touch them.  I can keep my finger on the heatsinks for as long as I want without feeling any real discomfort.

Because the LAN chip is so small, only a very small area of thermal tape would transfer heat from the chip to the heatsink.  This is why I used J-B Weld Epoxy - the thermal characteristics far exceed those of thermal tape.  This epoxy is used to repair cracks in diesel engines!

[FurryNutz]

So the LAN chip is the one that had the composite chip before that wasn't fixed to the chip well. Ok...
Well I didn't do any HD today however I gamed on it and checked it while gaming, wasn't too warm. I"ll get home this weekend and see if I can stream some HD content.

I'm wondering if using the heat taped version of the metal sinks isn't enough for Eluder maybe? His unit is still failing...maybe we need to visually check his chip placement and fixing of the heat sink to ensure it's getting a good heat xfer...

Eluder, can you post some pics for us on what it looks like? Also did you apply a heat sink to the composite one or did you pull that one off? Did it pull off easily if you did pull it?

Patrick, can you do the same so we can see what yours looks like? I'm curious on size of your sinks.

[AMPatrick]

Here is the picture of my thermal upgrade:



The two larger heatsinks on the right are an H30 size.  The smaller heatsink is an H29 size.
Heatsink adhesion method: J-B Weld Epoxy