Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[arkandel]

Hey there,

I was hoping to get some ideas about this issue.

I recently bought a Powerline AV 500 Network Starter Kit. The main unit is in my basement where the router is, plugged in on its own into a wall socket. The second unit is upstairs plugged into its own wall socket as well, connected to a WD TV Live media player.

It works. I get decent speeds when it does. The second unit's LEDs are all on and always green - they never blink, even while I'm streaming video. They're just ... on.

Now and then though I experience disconnects. The middle LED for the second unit is off then. If I restart the main unit they connect immediately and the network resumes.

I thought this might have been some sort of 'sleep mode' issue to conserve power (since the media player doesn't use the network when it's not actually streaming) so I made a cron job to ping it every 8 minutes. That seemed to work, I often get 12-14 hours of uninterrupted network this way - i.e. I stop watching, do other things, go to sleep and in the morning it's still on. However then I'll come back from work and the network is down and the middle LED on the second unit is off.

Both my PC (running Linux) and the media player have fixed IPs. As noted both the main and secondary units are in their own wall sockets on their own. No other appliances in the house are started or stopped when the network disconnects as, after all, it happens when I'm not home.

Any ideas? Could this be a hardware issue since the middle LED (or any other) never blinks to show network usage, even when the network is being heavily used?

Thanks in advance!

[FurryNutz]

Link>Welcome!

• What Hardware version is your router? Look at sticker under router.
• Link>What Firmware version is currently loaded? Found on the routers web page under status.
• What region are you located?
• Are you wired or wireless connected to the router?
• Has a Factory Reset been performed?

Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations

• What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
• What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
• Is ISP Modem/Service using Dynamic or Static WAN IP addressing?
• What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have?
• Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended.
• Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values
• For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.

Router and Wired Configurations
Some things to try: - Log into the routers web page at 192.168.0.1. Use IE, Opera or FF to manage the router. Besure to log into the Admin account on the router.

• Turn off ALL QoS or Disable Traffic Shaping (DIR only) GameFuel (DGL only and if ON.) options, Advanced/QoS or Gamefuel. For the DGL-5500, review this for Streamboost information and settings: Furry's DGL-5500 Review
• Turn off Advanced DNS Services if you have this option under Setup/Internet/Manual or under Setup/PARENTAL CONTROL/Set to>None: Static IP or Obtain Automatically From ISP.
• Enable Use Unicasting (compatibility for some ISP DHCP Servers) under Setup/Internet/Manual.
• Turn on DNS Relay  under Setup/Networking. Link>Finding Faster DNS Addresses using Name Bench and input new DNS addresses under Setup/Internet/Manual.
• Setup DHCP reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking. This ensures each devices gets its own IP address when turned on and connected, eliminates IP address conflicts and helps in troubleshooting and maintain consistency for applications that need to connect as well as mapped drives.
• Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address.
• If IPv6 is an option on the router, select Local Connection Only under Setup/IPv6.
• Set Firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP under Advanced/Firewall. Enable or Disable SPI to test.
• Enable uPnP and Multi-cast Streaming under Advanced/Networking. Disable uPnP for testing Port Forwarding rules. Enable IPv6 Multi-cast Streaming for routers that have a Media Server option. Disable IPv6 Multi-cast Streaming if IPv6 or Media Server is not being used.
• Turn off WISH, and WPS under Advanced.
• WAN Port Speed set to Auto or specific speed? Some newer ISP modems support 1000Mb so manually setting to Gb speeds can be supported by the router. Advanced/Advanced Networking/WAN Port Speed
• Set current Time Zone, Date and Time. Use an NTP Server feature. The DST setting is only needed in the NA region. Tools/Time.

Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations and Managing Signal Congestion and Good Neighbour Policy

• Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighboring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
• What wireless modes are you using?
• 2.4Ghz Routers only: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
• Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
• Try setting a manual Channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions.
• What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto TPIK and AES.
• What wireless devices do you have connected?
• Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by?
• Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer to find out. How many?
• If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI, WLAN Partition, Extra Wireless Protection and HT 20/40 Co-existence if you have it. Also testing with HT20/40Mhz Co-existence enabled will impact results as well. I prefer to use this option OFF. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
• Enable WMM Enable Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
• Try setting Medium or Low power output settings and test again Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.

Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.
Placement on main level floor and central in the building is preferred. Not in basements as building materials could interfere or hinder good signal propagation.

[arkandel]

Hello and thanks for the quick response.

• What Hardware version is your router?

1A

• Link>What Firmware version is currently loaded? Found on the routers web page under status.

4.2.4.3

• What region are you located?

Canada

• Are you wired or wireless connected to the router?

Wired

• Has a Factory Reset been performed?

I did it today after reading your post.


Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations Rogers Canada

• What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?

Cable

• What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?

Hitron CGN3-3.

• Is ISP Modem/Service using Dynamic or Static WAN IP addressing?

Dynamic

• What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have?

25 mbit/5 mbit

• Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended.

Done

• Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values

1500

• For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.

No such setting but it's always on, uptime was two weeks before I reset today.

I don't have most of the settings you suggested as options for the router. I've configured the DHCP and it does assign static IPs per device.

I continue to experience disconnects. I still don't ever see the middle LED flashing on either the main unit (the one connected to the modem) or the one connected to my media player, even while there's video streaming taking place.

To be honest I haven't moved the router physically away from the main unit yet but I will of course if you think that'd make a difference.

Any other suggestions or ideas?

[FurryNutz]

Lets give that a try and move the unit away from the main host router and other WiFi devices.

Keep us posted...

[arkandel]

Lets give that a try and move the unit away from the main host router and other WiFi devices.

Keep us posted...

I gave it a try. If anything it made the issue worse (or maybe it was just random).

I had a disconnect yesterday during the night some time after midnight - when no new devices in the house were turned on or off - and when I woke up I reset the powerline so it was working before I left, came to work, SSH'ed to my machine to ping the media player and the network is down again.

Thoughts?

[FurryNutz]

I can only presume that there could be some form of interferences going on or the DHP isn't getting good signal on the line.

What are distances between the ISP modem, DHP and your PC?

[arkandel]

The modem is about 6-8 feet away from the main adapter and I guess a foot away from the PC.

Regarding interferences though:

1) The connection never resumes on its own. Even if there were some wouldn't it mean the quality gets worse then once it's restored, so does the connection? The only way is to do so is to restart the adapter. Once down, it stays down.

2) Whenever I restart the adapter the connection is restored instantly, and the LED colors are always green. All three of them. I've never seen them flicker and they've never been non-green; when the connection is down the middle LED is off, otherwise all three are on full and unflickering green.

[FurryNutz]

Is the DHP LAN connected to the ISP modem?

I presume that the ISP modem is acting as main host router as well?
Is this your ISP modem? http://www.hitrontech.com/en/cable_detail.php?id=64

[arkandel]

Is the DHP LAN connected to the ISP modem?

I presume that the ISP modem is acting as main host router as well?
Is this your ISP modem? http://www.hitrontech.com/en/cable_detail.php?id=64

That's the correct modem, yes.

The coax cable (coming from outside) is connected to the modem. Then two ethernet cables connect the modem to the PC and to the main powerline adapter. Then in the living room where my TV is the second adapter is connected to the WD TV Live media player, also via an ethernet cable.

I even changed cables to make sure there was nothing wrong with them but didn't notice any changes.

[FurryNutz]

Does the 2nd adapter loose the connection as well?

I'd test these two adapters in the same room using different wall out lets to see if there could be any issues between where the 1st adapter is and the 2nd in the living room. We should rule out any power line problems between these two locations.

If the 1st adapter is loosing connection, another possibility is that it's loosing it from the main host router, your ISP modem. 

[arkandel]

If the 1st adapter is loosing connection, another possibility is that it's loosing it from the main host router, your ISP modem. 

How would I be able to test for just that part? I have hooked the 1st adapter to different ethernet slots (the highest and second highest priority ones). And yes, the 2nd adapter also loses its connection - its middle LED turns off.

What troubles me is that if this was an issue with the quality of the electrical network then I'd expect the connection's quality degrading then picking back up after. But it's either great or nothing at all, and when it's nothing it stays that way. It never resumes on its own.

Plus the LED not flickering when there's a file transfer (say, video streaming) taking place, how is that explained?

[FurryNutz]

I would presume that there is either something preventing the 500s from reconnecting and since it's some what random, I presume that something on the power line could be effecting correct operation.

One way to test this is to put both in the same room on the same circuit to rule out any problems in between the current configuration. If the problem still occurs then a closer look at these units probably by D-Link support would be needed. An extreme test would be to take both of these units to a friend, nieghbor or families place and set up there to a different modem or host router and see if the problem follows. 

I'd review the user manual and see if it explains the LED behaviors that your supposed to see. Usually any blinking green means good activity with the unit and client devices.

[FurryNutz]

FYI:
1 Power LED
• Solid. The device is receiving electrical power.
• Blinking. The device is setting itself up after reset or security button was pressed
or power saving mode enabled.
• Off. The device is not receiving electrical power.

2 PowerLine LED
• Solid. The device is connected to a PowerLine network.
• Blinking. The device is transmitting data.
• Off. The device has not found any other compatible PowerLine
devices using the same encryption key.
The color indicates the PowerLine link rate:
• Green. The PowerLine link rate is faster than 80 Mbps.
• Amber. The PowerLine link rate is between 50 Mbps and 80 Mbps.
• Red. The PowerLine link rate is less than 50 Mbps.

3 Ethernet LED
• Solid. The Ethernet port is linked but there is no data traffic.
• Blinking. The device is transmitting data.
• Off. There is no Ethernet connection.

[arkandel]

2 PowerLine LED
• Solid. The device is connected to a PowerLine network.
• Blinking. The device is transmitting data.
• Off. The device has not found any other compatible PowerLine
devices using the same encryption key.

It's this part which troubles me. The 2nd LED is always solid green, never another color, even while streaming video (i.e. it's obviously transmitting data). I could see the quality of the line being bad, sure, but why would the color not change?

And also why does it never resume after it's disconnected - I could see it if the electrical network was so bad it just couldn't, but then if I reset it by hand it connects immediately (<2 seconds) and the LED is solid green so the quality is reported as perfect?

[FurryNutz]

Thats a question that D-Link support needs to answer.

I recommend that you phone contact your regional D-Link support office and ask for help and information regarding this. We find that phone contact has better immediate results over using email.


Let us know what they say...