D-Link Forums
The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => IP Cameras => DCS-930L => Topic started by: TrevS on May 08, 2011, 09:16:24 AM
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Does anyone know of anything to do other than using an extension cord on a 930L?
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I purchased a DC power cord extension. It works fine, however when my DCS 932L goes into night mode, the audio gets bad and it often drops connection. I heard that the longer cord (mine is six feet) may cause a drop in voltage. I purchased my cord from mcmelectronics.com
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We made a six-foot dc extension cord using plug & socket from Radio Shack; it has been working without problem (DCS-932L).
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I too find the supplied power cord woefully short.
Does anyone have the specs on the plug? It looks like it's 5.5mm OD x 2.0mm ID, but it's not anywhere on the power supply or in the docs (that I've found).
I'd like to fashion an extension cord using a plug, jack and 22-gauge wire.
Of course, PoE would REALLY be nice to have on these units, since more often than not, the requirement is to put the camera where there really isn't any convenient power, or where a dangling power cord can easily be cut or pulled out to prevent recording.
(has DLink been answering these posts at all?)
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This thread in the 932L forum may be of interest.
http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=41850.0
I have both a 932L and 942L. The 942L ships with a longer corded AC Adapter but I noticed, unlike the one for my 932L, it is not made by D-Link. The manufacturer is Amigo. I guess D-Link went with another company to provide a longer cord.
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http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12628286
AC adapter pushes 5V/1.5A (sould be the same specs as your original cord), except the cord is 6ft long, so this may help. I'm sure you could find the right plug at the store as well. I've been using one of these to power a High Def video recorder for about 6 months now. Stable and cool (temperature-wise).
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I did some calculations wrt wire guage vs current and voltage drop. If (and I did not measure the wire guage) the wire is 22 guage, then at 1.2 amps, the voltage drop would be about 0.2 V. That amount of drop may or may not be significant. Given the results of the above experiments, it likely is significant, especially in Night Mode, where the extra power is requred for the IR leds.
Actually, I suppose I should measure the current draw and the voltage drop in Night Mode: has anyone done this?
When I think about this problem, perhaps the best/easiest solution is to use a light guage 110 v extension cord to supply the dlink switching supply, and use the existing as supplied out of the box. No soldering required. Light guage two conductor extension cords are cheap.
Regards,
Bob
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It is a lot easier to bring the AC to the camera than to take the camera to AC. In other words, get yourself an extension cord. That is what I did.
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I can see why some DCS-9XXL owners may want (or need) a longer power cord, as I myself had a need for structured wiring due to the location where my camera was physically mounted. I ultimately found a workaround, but would have preferred a longer OOB power cord.
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It is a lot easier to bring the AC to the camera than to take the camera to AC. In other words, get yourself an extension cord. That is what I did.
Even though you may think it's easier, it is certainly not safer. 5V/1A DC is not even gonna tickle you, if you happen to touch it with your hand, let along such things as fire risks related to running an extended AC cord.
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Fyi...I purchased a 33foot DC extension cable on eBay and my DCS-933L would not work at all. I had an extra 7V 1A power supply that I plugged it in to and now it works fine.
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Even though you may think it's easier, it is certainly not safer. 5V/1A DC is not even gonna tickle you, if you happen to touch it with your hand, let along such things as fire risks related to running an extended AC cord.
My cameras are outside on the garage wall but my extension cord runs inside the garage. What is the danger? That is why the call it extension cord.
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What I've done (I'm extending ~50ft) is I purchased variable-voltage power supplies and set them to 6.5V. Works like a charm, the voltage drop makes it ~4.8V at the end in worst case and ~5.5V at my shortest run (~15ft). These camera's are very sensitive to under-voltage it seems but can easily take a higher voltage.
I had also made a plan to use a large 12V-10A adapter (I power 5 camera's) and use 12V->5V/2A voltage stabilizers at the end points (those can be bought in a package at auto-parts shops and Amazon) with a small 25V-200uF cap to filter.