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The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => Routers / COVR => DIR-850L => Topic started by: nickowilson on October 08, 2014, 02:52:48 AM

Title: Router WAS working fine, then all of a sudden terrible/no internet
Post by: nickowilson on October 08, 2014, 02:52:48 AM

Hi guys,

I recently bought a DIR-850L router and performance has been fine for about a week. All of a sudden i couldn't connect to the internet through wireless, even though accordingly to the iPad/iPhone & Mac, I've got a full 3 bars, just can't access to internet in any way. Oddly enough it was all working fine, and I'm not sure if this had anything to do with it, but I connected my xBox One wirelessly too, since around that time it's all stopped working. I've recently disconnected the xBox and tried the following:

1) Turned the router off for a minute, then back on.
2) Router reset using the button on the bottom and a paper clip
3) Gone through the router setup numerous times.

The connection set up was an RJ45 lead from the wall into the router, and then all devices connected wireless. I thought it could be my ISP (Which is DU as I live in the UAE), however if I connect my Mac directly to the wall via an RJ45 lead, I can access the internet fine, even run a speed test and all is performing correctly. However, even though I can surf the net ok, if I try to update the firmware through the router login, it says it can't connect an internet connection!?

If I flick between the 2.4 ghz signal and 5 ghz wirelessly sometimes, I can sometimes access the internet briefly, however it doesn't last long.

Both lights are all ways on solid green the whole time too.

It's brand new and worked solidly for a week, but now barely works at all, even though I didn't actually tinker with anything!

Any ideas would be appreciated before I throw it out the window.

Cheers

Title: Re: Router WAS working fine, then all of a sudden terrible/no internet
Post by: FurryNutz on October 09, 2014, 06:44:48 AM

Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48135.0)

• What Hardware version is your router? Look at sticker under the router case.
• Link>What Firmware (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=47512.0) version is currently loaded? Found on the routers web page under status.
• What region are you located?
• Has a Factory Reset (http://blog.dlink.com/what-is-a-reset-button-when-should-i-use-it) been performed?

Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations

• What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
• Is ISP Modem/Service using Dynamic or Static WAN IP addressing?
• What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have?
• Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAT6)
• Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53008.0)

Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0) and Managing Signal Congestion (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53228.0) and Good Neighbour Policy (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=10634.0)

• Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighboring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
• What wireless modes are you using?
• 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz routers: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N on 2.4Ghz and single mode N or AC on 5Ghz?
• Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
• Try setting a manual Channel (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wireless_channels) to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions. Try channel 48 or 149 on 5Ghz.
• What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_Encryption_Standard), so you might want to try TPIK (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temporal_Key_Integrity_Protocol) only or Auto TPIK and AES.
• What wireless devices do you have connected?
• Ensure any devices with WiFi adapter drivers are updated.
• Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by?
• Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer (http://www.techspot.com/downloads/5936-inssider.html) to find out. How many? Use v3, its free.
• If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-features/30969-what-do-80211ns-optional-features-mean-for-you), WLAN Partition, Extra Wireless Protection and HT 20/40 Co-existence if you have it. Also testing with HT20/40Mhz Co-existence enabled will impact results as well. I prefer to use this option OFF. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.

Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.
Placement on main level floor and central in the building and WELL ventilated is preferred. Not in basements or closets as building materials, or near by electronics devices could interfere or hinder good signal propagation.