D-Link Forums
The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => Routers / COVR => DIR-857 => Topic started by: BiGxChucK on August 13, 2014, 06:41:53 AM
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Furree,
I will plug my DIR-857 up in a little bit and see what happens. I have the laptop cooler ready to go and once I get everything setup I will reply to his post.
I will get team viewer on my laptop so we can go through everything in my router and set it up right.
Chuck
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Whats wrong again? ???
- Has a Factory Reset (http://blog.dlink.com/what-is-a-reset-button-when-should-i-use-it) been performed?
- Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch?
FW Update Process (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=42457.0)
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
- What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
- What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0) and Managing Signal Congestion (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53228.0) and Good Neighbour Policy (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=10634.0)
- Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighboring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
- What wireless modes are you using?
- 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz routers: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N on 2.4Ghz and single mode N or AC on 5Ghz?
- Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz
- Try setting a manual Channel (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wireless_channels) to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions. Try channel 48 or 149 on 5Ghz.
- What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_Encryption_Standard), so you might want to try TPIK (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temporal_Key_Integrity_Protocol) only or Auto TPIK and AES.
- What wireless devices do you have connected?
- Ensure any devices with WiFi adapter drivers are updated.
- Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by?
- Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer (http://www.metageek.net/support/metageek-software-archives/) to find out. How many?
- If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-features/30969-what-do-80211ns-optional-features-mean-for-you), WLAN Partition, Extra Wireless Protection and HT 20/40 Co-existence if you have it. Also testing with HT20/40Mhz Co-existence enabled will impact results as well. I prefer to use this option OFF. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.
Placement on main level floor and central in the building and WELL ventilated is preferred. Not in basements or closets as building materials, or near by electronics devices could interfere or hinder good signal propagation.
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Whats wrong again? ???
- Has a Factory Reset (http://blog.dlink.com/what-is-a-reset-button-when-should-i-use-it) been performed?
- Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch?
FW Update Process (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=42457.0)
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
- What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
- What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0) and Managing Signal Congestion (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53228.0) and Good Neighbour Policy (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=10634.0)
- Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighboring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
- What wireless modes are you using?
- 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz routers: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N on 2.4Ghz and single mode N or AC on 5Ghz?
- Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz
- Try setting a manual Channel (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wireless_channels) to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions. Try channel 48 or 149 on 5Ghz.
- What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_Encryption_Standard), so you might want to try TPIK (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temporal_Key_Integrity_Protocol) only or Auto TPIK and AES.
- What wireless devices do you have connected?
- Ensure any devices with WiFi adapter drivers are updated.
- Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by?
- Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer (http://www.metageek.net/support/metageek-software-archives/) to find out. How many?
- If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-features/30969-what-do-80211ns-optional-features-mean-for-you), WLAN Partition, Extra Wireless Protection and HT 20/40 Co-existence if you have it. Also testing with HT20/40Mhz Co-existence enabled will impact results as well. I prefer to use this option OFF. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.
Placement on main level floor and central in the building and WELL ventilated is preferred. Not in basements or closets as building materials, or near by electronics devices could interfere or hinder good signal propagation.
1)I haven't done any factory resets.
2)I now have Suddenlink 50/3 and the modem is a ARRIS TM822
3)The SSID is one that we have always used for my routers. Home1 (2.4) and Home2 (5)
4)I always use mixed G and N for 2.4
5) I always had the channel width for 20/40
6)Had channel 11 for 2.4
It could be the wireless phones that we have since they work on both 2.4 and 5 and it has only been roughly 3 feet away from the modem and other electric devices. I am going to try and move it a little further away and with the laptop cooler see if it helps.
I will hook everything up now and see what happens, let you know in a little bit.
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Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer to find out. How many?
How is the router placed? What surface is it on? Good air flow for it?
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Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer to find out. How many?
How is the router placed? What surface is it on? Good air flow for it?
Got everything hooked back up. got the wifi explorer thing hooked up. There are 8 other wifi connections other than mine but hey are all on different channel. There seems to be a 2nd Home1(my ssid name) and it has a different mac address and is on the same channel (11).
I just moved my router to a higher position on top of the cabinet it was on so it is not "boxed" in anymore. I also hooked up the laptop cooler to it. I will run a shaperprobe mlab speed test and post the results. My laptop is wired directly to the router btw
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My firmware is 1.02. What do I do about the other Home1 wirelss network on the same chanel?
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You know what? The other Home1 SSID may be my D-Link DAP-1320 wireless extender. I have it setup to the same SSID and password so the family can connect to it automatically and easier. Could this be causing a problem?
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Yes, if there is a different router with same SSID, either change the name or change channel, 1 or 6.
Turn that off for now and test with the 857.
If you need a DAP in AP mode you can use it however it needs to be on a different channel, 1 while the 857 is on 11.
Lets try that first. There is more resent FW available however lets test first...
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I will unplug the DAP and then go get the newer firmware. Is it the 1.04?
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Downloading the firmware now.
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No, test with current FW loaded for now with DAP OFF...
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Too late! :-[ I will go check signal at the furthest pint in the house. I unplugged the DAP. After we get ll this squared away I would like to prioritize the xbox one in my router. I forgot how we did that last time
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Be sure to follow this:
FW Update Process (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=42457.0)
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Everything seems to be fine. Getting really good signal in my bedroom which is the furthest point in the house. I have full WiFi bars on my cell and my daughters tablet. I will now go upstairs and check it out
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Test with out the DAP being online for a while.
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Upstairs was just as good as it was in my bedroom. Got great signal and streaming netflix was seamless. here are my speedtest results from the mlabs shaperprobe test.
DiffProbe release. January 2012. Build 1008.
Shaper Detection Module.
Connected to server.
Estimating capacity:
Upstream: 3289 Kbps.
Downstream: 97538 Kbps.
The measurement will take upto 3.0 minutes. Please wait.
Checking for traffic shapers:
Upstream: No shaper detected.
Median received rate: 3210 Kbps.
Downstream: No shaper detected.
Median received rate: 48720 Kbps.
For more information, visit: http://www.cc.gatech.edu/~partha/diffprobe
And here is the speedtest.net test to Dallas from Tyler
(http://www.speedtest.net/result/3687049792.png) (http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/3687049792)
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Test with out the DAP being online for a while.
I plan on leaving it unplugged if i continue to get really good signal across the house.
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Glad it's working good now. Enjoy. ;)
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Now how do I prioritize the xbox one. I want to do this because my kids will be playing the 360, minecraft (pc) and the wife and daughter will be streaming netflix or surfing the web while I play.
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DIR-857 Gaming and Gamefuel for XBL (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=47344.0)
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I have the XboxOne setup in QoS. That all I put in there, is that ok?
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Yep, just be sure to set the priorities accordingly is all. if you have two game consoles, they can be set to the same and should be ok. Try 50. Set the ALLOtherDevices rule to 128.
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Oh, I saved it to what it was assigned. 192.168.0.107, is this ok? And the whole 3074 port thing. I put that number in the local and remote port place?
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Yes.
I'd use 0-65535 for remote ports and 0.0.0.1 thru 255.255.255.254 for remote IPs.
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I changed the ports back to 0-65535 for both the port sections. I am savin and rebooting everything now and going to check all devices
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Had to manually reboot the router but all seems to have signal and is connected to the interwebz. I will play some xbox one later tonight and see how that goes but I did notice that it set my nat to strict when I did a detailed connection test. Is that normal? I kept reading that link you sent me but all I got out of it was to do a factory reset of the xbox, why would I want to do that?
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Xboxes networking seems to not clear the network cache sometimes thus still might display Moderate NAT. Only way to be sure you get OPEN Nat is to factory reset the networking settings. This is under the Networking settings of the console.
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Xboxes networking seems to not clear the network cache sometimes thus still might display Moderate NAT. Only way to be sure you get OPEN Nat is to factory reset the networking settings. This is under the Networking settings of the console.
I will check it later, I made it a habit of testing the connection prior to me playing online for a while. I have noticed that when it says strict under the settings on xbox and then I get into a CoD lobby it says open! Its a mystery to me.
Thanks for your help again!! As usual your are da man.
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Ya, when you many changes to the router regarding any QoS, be sure to reboot the router, factory reset the network settings on the game console, turn OFF, than back ON. NAT should be open.
Enjoy. ;)
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I just turned the Xbox One back on to run a detailed network test and it sais the NAT was Open and my test was 50.92Down/3.14Up, 0 packet loss, MTU 1480 and my latency 86ms.
Hopefully the NAT stays open.
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Awesome. ;) There have been issues with XB1s Instant On feature regarding NAT. Some have to disable that to get NAT OPEN. This is a known issue with MS.
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Having packet loss on XB1 huh? ???