D-Link Forums
The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => Routers / COVR => DIR-655 => Topic started by: astyanax on January 05, 2013, 09:58:07 PM
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Hi guys,
Just bought a dir-655, set it up (all though the wizard wasn't working, it kept getting stuck on step 5 of 7) so I just configured everything manually.
I'm getting 2.4 MB/s speeds wirelessly.
I was expecting much better, my wireless g linksys router did just slightly lower than that. My xbox 360 can't even stream HD without buffering every few mins. It also will just stop, and be unable to see the media for a couple minutes (when doing HD).
What possible solutions are there? I have wireless setup as WPA2, and the devices I use wirelessly are N devices. I have the router setup to only use wireless N.
Any help would be very grateful, thank you.
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Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=41537.0)
What Hardware version is your router? Look at sticker under router.
Link>What Firmware (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=47512.0) version is currently loaded? Found on routers web page under status.
What region are you located?
Are you wired or wireless connected to the router?
Has a Factory Reset been performed?
What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
What ISP Modem do you have? Stand Alone or built in router?
What ISP Modem make and model do you have?
If this modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems.
Double NAT (http://www.practicallynetworked.com/networking/fixing_double_nat.htm)
To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged.
If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ.
Some things to try: - Log into the routers web page at 192.168.0.1. Use IE, Opera or FF to manage the router.
Turn off ALL QoS (http://vonage.nmhoy.net/qos.html) or Disable Traffic Shaping (DIR only) GameFuel (DGL only and if ON.) options. Advanced/QoS or Gamefuel.
Turn off Advanced DNS Services if you have this option under Setup/Internet/Manual.
Turn on DNS Relay under Setup/Networking.
Setup DHCP reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking. This ensures each devices gets its own IP address when turned on and connected, eliminates IP address conflicts and helps in troubleshooting.
Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address.
Set Firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP under Advanced/Firewall.
Enable uPnP and Multi-cast Streaming under Advanced/Networking. Disable uPnP for testing Port Forwarding rules.
WAN Port Speed set to Auto or specific speed? Some newer ISP modems support 1000Mb so manually setting to Gb speeds can be supported by the router. Advanced/Advanced Networking/WAN Port Speed
Set Time and Time Zone under Tools/Time.
Link>Wireless Installation Considerations (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0)
What wireless modes are you using? Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
Try setting a manual channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear.
What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto.
What wireless devices do you have connected?
Any cordless house phones?
Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer (http://www.metageek.net/) to find out. How many?
Turn off WISH, and WPS under Advanced.
Try turning off Short GI, WLAN Partition,and Extra Wireless Protection if you have it. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
Enable WMM Enable (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=50738.0) Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
Turn off all anti virus and firewall programs on PC while testing. 3rd party firewalls are not generally needed when using routers as they are effective on blocking malicious inbound traffic.
Turn off all devices accept for one wired PC while testing.
Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAT6)
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What Hardware version is your router? Look at sticker under router.
HW: B1.
Link>What Firmware version is currently loaded? Found on routers web page under status.
2.10NA
What region are you located?
Canada (all though router was bought in USA)
Are you wired or wireless connected to the router?
Both. Desktops are wired, laptop and xbox are wireless.
Has a Factory Reset been performed?
I dont think so, I just bought it?
What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
DSL
What ISP Modem do you have? Stand Alone or built in router?
Stand alone
What ISP Modem make and model do you have?
SpeedTouch 516
I just tried all the 'things to try'.
What wireless modes are you using? Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
N only. Also tried mixed.
Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
I've tried both, but its on auto.
Try setting a manual channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear.
I'm in apartment, not a major one by any means but there are a couple routers on each channel 1 6 and 11. I tried channel 9 and have it left on 9 since no one was using it.
What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto.
WPA2 Personal. AES.
What wireless devices do you have connected?
Laptop, and a xbox 360.
Any cordless house phones?
2.
Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer to find out. How many?
7.
Wireless speeds are at around 3.5 MB/s, and wired from PC to PC and PC to other devices can reach about 34 MB/s. Was hoping for much better.
Thank you for your help.
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Did you try the router out of the box before updating? Was it working before the update?
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What is step 5 of 7? What is it trying to due? You might try reseting to factory defaults and starting over and see if you can get past step 5.
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Did you try the router out of the box before updating? Was it working before the update?
I didn't test out any speeds before updating, no.
It was working fine as far as surfing and my wife playing WoW goes before updating.
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What is step 5 of 7? What is it trying to due? You might try reseting to factory defaults and starting over and see if you can get past step 5.
It was telling me to plug the power cord in, which I did. Tried it a few different times, closed the wizard and started it again from scratch. Still wouldn't work.
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FW Update Process (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=42457.0)
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I would not run the CD, just logon to the router go to tools, system and reset to factory defaults and re enter your router info. See if this helps.
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FW Update Process (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=42457.0)
I'm sorry, are you suggesting I factory reset it; then not update the FW and see if that will fix it?
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I would not run the CD, just logon to the router go to tools, system and reset to factory defaults and re enter your router info. See if this helps.
Worth a shot. Thanks
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It seems that doing a factory reset helped my speeds from the two PCs that are sitting right next to each other.
All the wireless devices are still about the same, 3.4 MB/s on my xbox, and a lousy 700 KB/s on my PS3. Yet, all the wireless devices show as 65M 'rate', and 100% signal %.
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Keep us posted on how it works out for you.
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Keep us posted on how it works out for you.
Wireless speeds are still absolutely awful. Wired seems to be slowing down again to ~ 30 MB/s.
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Maybe someone can review your router settings with you using Link> teamviewer (http://www.teamviewer.com) if your interested. Its safe and secure.
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Devices don’t have unlimited speeds which they can sustain. I know many years ago when gig Ethernet came out I did a test with PCs on how much data they could sustain on a gig to gig connection. I started with a PC with one hard drive and the data rate was very low. I then went to a 2 drive RAID and it was better but still low. I then setup a 6 drive RAID with caching. This 6 drive RAID would sustain about 50 to 60 meg on a gig connection. Machine now days are faster but still limited. What I determined is PCs are IO bound and maintaining high rates of data flow is hard. All of this was on good wired connections. You throw wireless into the picture and things get complicated. Do you buy chance think maybe you have reached the limits of the devices you want to run faster? Have you tried a wired connection to see what your limits are?
Now the router, routers have limits also. Routers get IO bound through their CPUs. When you want maximum speed from a router you want to reduce IO traffic for the router to only outbound (internet) traffic. With local traffic LAN to LAN it best to have another device like a switch are something to handle this load so the router CPU never has to process any of the local traffic. If you get real serious you separate wireless and routers into separate devices for reasons above.
My question is your wireless speed limiting your functionality of your devices? Yes we can all go faster. If yes you need to determine where your bottle necks are in your network and upgrade accordingly. Maybe you need to use a wired connection. Wire connections always run faster and better. If you have neighbors using wireless also then you need to figure out how to run your wireless in the best possible light. Analyze your network and environment.
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Devices don’t have unlimited speeds which they can sustain. I know many years ago when gig Ethernet came out I did a test with PCs on how much data they could sustain on a gig to gig connection. I started with a PC with one hard drive and the data rate was very low. I then went to a 2 drive RAID and it was better but still low. I then setup a 6 drive RAID with caching. This 6 drive RAID would sustain about 50 to 60 meg on a gig connection. Machine now days are faster but still limited. What I determined is PCs are IO bound and maintaining high rates of data flow is hard. All of this was on good wired connections. You throw wireless into the picture and things get complicated. Do you buy chance think maybe you have reached the limits of the devices you want to run faster? Have you tried a wired connection to see what your limits are?
Now the router, routers have limits also. Routers get IO bound through their CPUs. When you want maximum speed from a router you want to reduce IO traffic for the router to only outbound (internet) traffic. With local traffic LAN to LAN it best to have another device like a switch are something to handle this load so the router CPU never has to process any of the local traffic. If you get real serious you separate wireless and routers into separate devices for reasons above.
My question is your wireless speed limiting your functionality of your devices? Yes we can all go faster. If yes you need to determine where your bottle necks are in your network and upgrade accordingly. Maybe you need to use a wired connection. Wire connections always run faster and better. If you have neighbors using wireless also then you need to figure out how to run your wireless in the best possible light. Analyze your network and environment.
My PS3 on my old WRT5GL router would get at least 2 MB/s, and that was wireless-g. My PS3 now hits around 700 KB/s with wireless-n. My xbox 360 has a wireless n adapter, that device downloads at around 3.4 MB/s on wireless-n with the current setup.
My laptop shows that its connecting at 150 mbps, yet the speeds are around 3.4 MB/s also.
Wired connection to my PS3 gets around 18 MB/s, I have yet to try it on the xbox or my laptop. I do have neighbors that're using wireless, I've ran inSSIDer and there's only one other router (with a weak signal mind you) that's operating on channel 6, so I've stuck with that one.
I appreciate all the info, and any help is appreciated.
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Maybe someone can review your router settings with you using Link> teamviewer (http://www.teamviewer.com) if your interested. Its safe and secure.
I actually have teamviewer installed. I don't mind someone who works with D-Link connecting and taking a look by all means, but I would really rather not allow a stranger on my PC to be totally honest. :)
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I recommend using channel 11 if it's open and not used.
Also be aware that Linksys WRT routers never had or probably never included something called "Good Nieghbor Policy" as newer generation routers are required to have now. It means that all WiFi routers have to play nice when near each other.
I recommend testing each device out while ALL others are completely turned off or power has been pulled from the wall socket. Test each one out.
What is the distance between the 655 and your devices?
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I've help many others check out there router. When and if you want additional help, send me a PM. This would be only reviewing the router settings and nothing else.
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I have a new DIR-655 router also. I use a Roku to stream movies across the wireless with my wife using her iPhone and iPad and me on my laptop sometimes wired sometimes wireless without any interruptions to the movies. I am in the mountains of New Mexico in my vacation home without close neighbors. There are very few wireless devices around so I have no competing wireless devices. I am on a 1.5mb local cable company internet connection.
It sounds like you have issues with neighbors’ wireless devices. I would try different channels. The best channels are 1, 6, and 11. If at all possible use wired connections.
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Somebody has a ISP Modem with a built in router. ::)
Working on it now to get it bridged. I set up the 655 so everything should be good there. Will update soon.
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Well trying the public IP address to a connected network devices doesn't seem to work. Not sure what is going on.
Heres what I recommend:
1. Phone contact the ISP and ask them if they can help you bridge or get the public IP address from the ISP Modem to the router. If at all possible.
2. I see that this DSL modems is fairly old, 2006. I would ask the ISP if there is a newer more up to date DSL modem that they can give you, preferably one that can either be bridged fully, provide a Public IP address to the 655 or has a configurable DMZ option. The DMZ can be used for the 655 as a last resort.
If either one of these can be done and fully completed so that the 655 can be the main host router, then you should be good to go and be able to test speeds accurately.
Right now speeds will be inaccurate. I'm hoping that either one of the options will get you going. Your almost there. I'll check back when I get home and see how things are and go from there. You need to get to a single NAT condition here. ;)
Sorry it didn't work out as I hoped.
Keep us posted.
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Really appreciate all the help, I will contact ISP and see what they have to say.
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Keep us posted.
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Well, I decided I had enough of my ISP.
For only 20 dollars more, I can get 30 mbit (as opposed to 6 mbit), and a nice brand new DCM476 cable modem. The DCM476 shouldn't give me this sort of issue, is that correct?
Also, if I unplugged my DSL modem currently, my speeds should be gigabit over the LAN correct?
Again, thanks.
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Kewl, Ya the DCM is a stand alone modem, no DHCP router or NAT built in. So it should be pretty much plug and play. I would probably recommend that you directly connect 1 PC to the modem first to make sure that the cable serivce, modem, account and internet connection has been established. Once thats been done, then power off everything and connect up the DIR-655 and the rest to the 655. Power on the modem and let it sync, then power up the 655. All should be good. Shouldn't have to change anything on the 655.
Let us know if you need more help.
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My wired speeds seem to be pretty good, 50 MB/s or so. However, wireless is still very poor, ~ 2.7 MB/s.
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Is this client to client testing or client to Internet testing?
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Is this client to client testing or client to Internet testing?
Client to client. PC -> Xbox360, PS3.
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Can you do PC to PC?
Seen some slow performance on game consoles.
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Can you do PC to PC?
Seen some slow performance on game consoles.
Sorry, I forgot to mention I have done it on my laptop, yes. Stays steady at 2.7 MB/s
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Was any 3rd party security programs disabled and all back ground running programs stopped or disabled while testing?
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Was any 3rd party security programs disabled and all back ground running programs stopped or disabled while testing?
confirmed, nothing running in the background.
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WiFI drivers are up to date for those devices that have drivers needed for the WiFi adapter?
Test with WMM Enable OFF and ON.
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WiFI drivers are up to date for those devices that have drivers needed for the WiFi adapter?
Test with WMM Enable OFF and ON.
correct.
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1. What are you using to determine your speeds wireless?
2. How many wireless networks do you see around you?
3. How is reception around the house with your cordless phone?
And anyone that remoted it, anyone run any wireless scanning? Like wireshark?
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1. What are you using to determine your speeds wireless?
2. How many wireless networks do you see around you?
3. How is reception around the house with your cordless phone?
And anyone that remoted it, anyone run any wireless scanning? Like wireshark?
1. 'more details' when dragging and dropping files/folders on my homegroup. or ftp on some of the gaming devices.
2. 7 in total, but a couple are extremely weak.
3. excellent.