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[wallyuwl]

I'm trying to decide between this router and the ASUS RT-AC68U. 

A main question: Both have VPN ability to log on to the network remotely (though it looks like this one can only have one user, not a big deal for me).  ASUS offers free DDNS registration and it is easily done through their software.  Does this router have something similar?

Does this router get really hot?  It seems to be a concern with some of these high end ac routers.

Otherwise they look very similar.  Same processor, same RAM.  But this one seems to have less problems dropping than the ASUS, though the ASUS was a little faster in cnet testing.  Both have DLNA support and the same USB ports.  Both have similar apps to connect to the router though the software seems deeper with the ASUS.  I like that you can connect cameras with the D-link.

I also think D-link is much better with customer support and responding to customer needs with things like firmware updates.  This is no small thing.

Thanks.

[xGBHxPegasus]

I'm trying to decide between this router and the ASUS RT-AC68U. 

A main question: Both have VPN ability to log on to the network remotely (though it looks like this one can only have one user, not a big deal for me).  ASUS offers free DDNS registration and it is easily done through their software.  Does this router have something similar?

Dlink have their own DDNS which is for Dlink customers, not sure how good it is now but I used it with no issues 2 or so years ago: https://www.dlinkddns.com, pretty much type in the details (username, ddns name, password) and click submit.

Does this router get really hot?  It seems to be a concern with some of these high end ac routers.

I have it running 24/7 and haven't seen any increased heat from it, I'll check tonight and see for you, but I doubt it will affect performance at all.

Otherwise they look very similar.  Same processor, same RAM.  But this one seems to have less problems dropping than the ASUS, though the ASUS was a little faster in cnet testing.  Both have DLNA support and the same USB ports.  Both have similar apps to connect to the router though the software seems deeper with the ASUS.  I like that you can connect cameras with the D-link.

I also think D-link is much better with customer support and responding to customer needs with things like firmware updates.  This is no small thing.

Thanks.

Completly agree with the support, had mine 2 days and found a bug in the firmware, raised a support ticket and 2 days later had a beta firmware to use which fixed the issue

[FurryNutz]

Link>Welcome!

• What region are you located?

Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations

• What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
• What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
• What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have?

This is a good router. Has a new UI so it's a bit more simplistic then the current thats being used over the years. The router is still fully functional and fully featured. If your looking for more granular router UI, then maybe a DIR-868L would need to be looked at.

What are your current networking needs. Any future proofing needed as well?

The router case is more ventilated and runs with in spec of temperature limits. Just make sure it's in a well ventilated room and placed on a surface or maybe a wooden rack that allows for air to move up thru the bottom of the case as a suggestion. The use of a laptop cooler doesn't hurt either. I run one just as standard procedure on my router.

Aside from the few bugs that have been found have been quickly fixed, this is a good next generation router for this time frame. Has some nice new features that the other routers don't like live status. Kind of handy to see whats being used as far as bandwidth is concerned.

Please look over my review here for additional information:
http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=59563.0

Please ask questions if you need more information.

Let us know what you decide to get.

[wallyuwl]

Thanks guys.

I have Time Warner cable internet, 15 Mbps down and I think 2 up.  Modem is the one from the cable company (was going to buy one instead of renting one but they gave it free). 

The reason I'm looking to upgrade from my 5 year old 300N Belkin is I got a new high end receiver (Pioneer Elite SC-71) and attached a dual band network adapter to make it wireless (http://www.staples.com/NETGEAR-Universal-N600-Dual-Band-WiFi-to-Ethernet-Adapter-WNCE3001/product_369203).  But it doesn't get a strong signal often and it buffers, especially when I'm on the computer.  So I need one with beamforming, QoS, and dual band.  I'm going to get a new laptop in a year or so that will have an AC network adapter, and we're going to move into a bigger house in a year or so that will require more range, so kind of future proofing as well. 

A big concern I have with the ASUS is that there are many reports online of it working for a few months and then having problems.  People report that it runs very hot, and since it is a vertical design you can't use a laptop cooler.  It seems that the constant high heat takes a toll on the hardware over time.  For software, I don't need to manually control every little thing.  I used to get into that but really now just want something that works. 

Does anyone know how long the D-link DDNS is free for (as long as you remain a D-link customer)?  On the web site it says up to six months, but some products have longer.  That isn't really an answer.   

It looks like this receiver has the capability to automatically assign devices between 2.4 and 5 Ghz bandwidths.  Say I want my receiver to always be on 5 Ghz and the phone to always be on 2.4, can I do that? 

Lastly, anyone know of any coupons for the D-link store?  LOL!

I'm pretty sure I'm going to get this one.  Just wish it was available locally.

[FurryNutz]

I have Time Warner cable internet, 15 Mbps down and I think 2 up.  Modem is the one from the cable company (was going to buy one instead of renting one but they gave it free). 
What is the Mfr and model of the ISP modem? You can still buy your own to avoid rental fees with ISPs. We recommend Motorola SB 6 series stand alone modems. I'm currently using the SB 6180.

The reason I'm looking to upgrade from my 5 year old 300N Belkin is I got a new high end receiver (Pioneer Elite SC-71) and attached a dual band network adapter to make it wireless (http://www.staples.com/NETGEAR-Universal-N600-Dual-Band-WiFi-to-Ethernet-Adapter-WNCE3001/product_369203).  But it doesn't get a strong signal often and it buffers, especially when I'm on the computer.  So I need one with beamforming, QoS, and dual band.  I'm going to get a new laptop in a year or so that will have an AC network adapter, and we're going to move into a bigger house in a year or so that will require more range, so kind of future proofing as well. 
I recommend getting a D-Link model DAP or DIR series bridge to connect to this receiver:Bridge Mode vs Relay vs Acess Point (AP) / Routers vs Dedicated Access Points (AP) I have an old TX-47 that still running great. 

A big concern I have with the ASUS is that there are many reports online of it working for a few months and then having problems.  People report that it runs very hot, and since it is a vertical design you can't use a laptop cooler.  It seems that the constant high heat takes a toll on the hardware over time.  For software, I don't need to manually control every little thing.  I used to get into that but really now just want something that works. 
No idea about ASUS, however haven't seen any issues with the 880L as if yet. If you are concerned about heat, get you a laptop cooler. I have this one under my router:http://www.walmart.com/ip/Onn-Laptop-Cooling-Pad/16794998


Does anyone know how long the D-link DDNS is free for (as long as you remain a D-link customer)?  On the web site it says up to six months, but some products have longer.  That isn't really an answer.   
I recommend that you contact DDNS directly and ask what the specifics are with there service. There has been a service change recently:
http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=60138.0

It looks like this receiver has the capability to automatically assign devices between 2.4 and 5 Ghz bandwidths.  Say I want my receiver to always be on 5 Ghz and the phone to always be on 2.4, can I do that? 
If you want the RCVR on 5Ghz always, then set up the bridge to point at the 5Ghz SSID. It should maintain that frequency always if you use the same SSID on both radios. It's not recommended to use the same SSID names on both radios, use different to keep it simple and easy for troubleshooting if needed.

Lastly, anyone know of any coupons for the D-link store?  LOL!
Check the store for any thing on sale. You can get good pricing thru NewEgg as well. Where I got mine from.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to get this one.  Just wish it was available locally.

[wallyuwl]

I have Time Warner cable internet, 15 Mbps down and I think 2 up.  Modem is the one from the cable company (was going to buy one instead of renting one but they gave it free). 
What is the Mfr and model of the ISP modem? You can still buy your own to avoid rental fees with ISPs. We recommend Motorola SB 6 series stand alone modems. I'm currently using the SB 6180.

The reason I'm looking to upgrade from my 5 year old 300N Belkin is I got a new high end receiver (Pioneer Elite SC-71) and attached a dual band network adapter to make it wireless (http://www.staples.com/NETGEAR-Universal-N600-Dual-Band-WiFi-to-Ethernet-Adapter-WNCE3001/product_369203).  But it doesn't get a strong signal often and it buffers, especially when I'm on the computer.  So I need one with beamforming, QoS, and dual band.  I'm going to get a new laptop in a year or so that will have an AC network adapter, and we're going to move into a bigger house in a year or so that will require more range, so kind of future proofing as well. 
I recommend getting a D-Link model DAP or DIR series bridge to connect to this receiver:Bridge Mode vs Relay vs Acess Point (AP) / Routers vs Dedicated Access Points (AP) I have an old TX-47 that still running great. 

The modem is an ARRIS model CM820.  I just took it from the cable company because they gave it to me free, no rental fees. 

I don't know anything about bridges.  I'll read the link later tonight, don't have time now.  But are there any specific recommendations you have for hardware to do this?  Are there any that can be powered USB instead of outlet (not a big deal but the receiver has a USB port to power an adapter which is handy and avoids another plug).  Also, the smaller the better. 

[FurryNutz]

The modem is an ARRIS model CM820.  I just took it from the cable company because they gave it to me free, no rental fees. 
As long as the modem is stand alone and working you should be good here. We have seen some issues with the Mfr of modems as FYI: Arris Cable Modems and External Routers

I don't know anything about bridges.  I'll read the link later tonight, don't have time now.  But are there any specific recommendations you have for hardware to do this?  Are there any that can be powered USB instead of outlet (not a big deal but the receiver has a USB port to power an adapter which is handy and avoids another plug).  Also, the smaller the better. 
Most APs and Bridges required and have power adapters and I don't know of any that can be powered vis USB.

These are small form factor bridges that you could use for your looking to keep it small:
http://www.dlink.com/us/en/home-solutions/connect_us/access-points-range-extenders-and-bridges/dap-1650-wireless-ac1200-gigabit-range-extender

http://www.dlink.com/us/en/home-solutions/connect_us/access-points-range-extenders-and-bridges/dap-1520-wifi-ac750-range-extender

[wallyuwl]

My modem does not have a router built-in.  I'll probably keep it until it starts giving me problems.  So far it has been fine.

The bridge idea is a good one.  I'm interested in the DAP-1650.  It isn't much more money than the crappy Netgear adapter.  And this way I can hard wire (to the bridge) my Xbox for a better signal.  And tv if I get a smart tv in the future.

I'm wondering... the DAP-1650 is 300 Mbps/887 Mbps.  The DIR-880L can do 600/1300.  So what is the (max) speed that the DAP 1650 would actually RECEIVE as a bridge?  I know it would only transmit 300/887 when used as an extender.

If the speed the DAP-1650 can receive is only what it is rated, then I might go with the DIR-850L instead of the 880L.

Also, can the DAP-1650 be used as an extender and bridge at the same time?

The two D-link devices together are looking like a solid option. 

[JavaLawyer]

I'm using the DAP-1650 and DIR-868L connected in Extender mode. I have devices wired to the DAP-1650 rear ports and they inherit the IP reservations I have configured on the DIR-868L.  I can't quantify the throughput, but can say that HD video stored on a DNS-345 (4-bay NAS) wired to the DAP-1650 streams smoothly (no playback/buffering issues) to a Boxee Box wired to the DIR-868L.  I did run into buffering issues when streaming Bluray video over the same pipe.

I haven't tested bridge mode yet, but recommend downloading the DAP-1650 user manual, which explains the functionality of each configuration mode.

[wallyuwl]

I'm using the DAP-1650 and DIR-868L connected in Extender mode. I have devices wired to the DAP-1650 rear ports and they inherit the IP reservations I have configured on the DIR-868L.  


I haven't tested bridge mode yet, but recommend downloading the DAP-1650 user manual, which explains the functionality of each configuration mode.

It looks to me like the DAP-1650 set up as an extender, plugging the device (in this case a home theater receiver) into the back via Ethernet, would provide the same functionality as setting it up as a bridge.  Am I correct in this? 

If I'm correct above, then is there any advantage to setting it up as just a bridge vs. extender? 

If I were to set up the DAP-1650 as an extender, and the wireless ranges of the host router (DIR-880L) and the DAP-1650 overlap in the area I'm in with say a laptop, and the SSIDs are the same (so the 2.4 channel is named the same on both), would I know which device the laptop is hooked in to?

Trying to figure all this out.  Looked at some of the articles and such but still unsure of some things.

[JavaLawyer]

If I were to set up the DAP-1650 as an extender, and the wireless ranges of the host router (DIR-880L) and the DAP-1650 overlap in the area I'm in with say a laptop, and the SSIDs are the same (so the 2.4 channel is named the same on both), would I know which device the laptop is hooked in to?

I had the same question setting up the device. If the DIR-880L and DAP-1650 use the same SSID, there's no way to tell which device a client is connected to. The DAP-1650 doesn't have a connected device table that reports which clients are connected to the LAN specifically through the DAP-1650 vs. DIR-880L.

In extender mode, the DAP-1650 behaves exactly the same as an unmanaged switch that you would connect to a router. The only difference here is that the switch is connected to the router via wireless. All connected clients will show-up under the DIR-880L connected devices table just as they would if you were to use a regular wired switch rather than the DAP-1650.

You can use different SSIDs to manually select which host the client links to.

[FurryNutz]

I would recommend keeping different SSID names one each frequency. This will help in managing devices and connections and help in troubleshooting. As you gain more experience and knowledge on how to use your equipment, maybe at some point you could test using same SSID names on the radios and run your own tests to see what the behavior is. You may find that the expected behavior is not to your liking for ease of operation and access.

[wallyuwl]

Thanks everyone.

I don't know why I didn't think of this sooner, but I actually don't need a bridge/extender.  I can move the location of my modem and router to by the tv stand in the living room.  There is an extra cable port there, since when DirecTV was installed they wired it outside the house and installed a new port for use with their system (better cabling than what the house was wired with, I guess). 

[FurryNutz]

Be careful on placement:
Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.
Placement on main level floor and central in the building and WELL ventilated is preferred. Not in basements or closets as building materials, or near by electronics devices could interfere or hinder good signal propagation.