D-Link Forums
The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => Routers / COVR => DIR-878 => Topic started by: MariusBogdan on January 18, 2019, 05:31:11 AM
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Hello guys , im pretty new to this forum . My name is Marius and im from Romania . In the past i have used a dlink router ( cant remember the model now ) , but it was something AC1200 and had 4 antenas like this one and it worked fine for a time ( 2 years or so ) but its range was kinda modest . I never did anything to the settings to the old AC1200 router , besides plugging it and using the little wizard to select ppoe settings and putting my info into it and then making a wifi with my name and password . Like a i said im a noob when it comes to setting the best settings for routers and so on .
Anyway i wanted to make an upgrade and to continue with the dlink brand and i decided to get the AC1900 dir 878 . all well with it when i got it , i used the little wizard but this time i made a 2.4 ghz for me and a 5 ghz for my father to use it in his room to watch netflix on his tv . But the problems for me came soon , ive realised when i was using the phone with wifi i would get small buffers and the biggest thing that turned me off from the router was the fact that when i was playing games on my PC like league of legends or rainbow six siege it would disconnect me out of nowhere , even tho in games i would have like 30 ms ping or so . then ive read on the forum that someone resolved the router crashes ( maybe there arent even crashes ) when he disabled smart connect . i tried that too , but i still get disconnected from my games .
Its very annoying cause if you disconnect from rainbow six siege , you cant log back in the same game and i have to start another and another .
Anyway if someone has any tips for me , i would gladly try to follow , as i said i got no idea how to use the settings in the router page , besides the little wizard .
Its even more frustrating that the old dlink router worked fine but its range was s***ty.
Thanks for hearing me out .
Marius !
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Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=49573.0)
- Link>What Firmware (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=47512.0) version is currently loaded? Found on the routers web page under status.
- Has a Factory Reset (http://blog.dlink.com/what-is-a-reset-button-when-should-i-use-it) been performed?
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
- What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
- What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
- What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have? Link> Speed Testing Sites (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48352.0)
- By-pass the main host router and check internet connection by connecting a wired LAN PC directly to the ISP modem to verify connection access and ISP speeds.
- Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAT6)
- Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53008.0)
- For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.
- If the ISP modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems: Link>Double NAT (http://www.practicallynetworked.com/networking/fixing_double_nat.htm) and How NAT Works (http://computer.howstuffworks.com/nat.htm). Call the ISP and ask to see if the ISP modem can be bridged. To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged. If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ (http://www.dslreports.com/shownews/Networking-101-The-DMZ-137550). Also check the routers DHCP IP address maybe conflicting with the ISP modems IP address of 192.168.0.1. Check to see if this is the same on the ISP modem, and if modem can't be bridged, change the DIR router to 192.168.1.1 or .0.254.
Example of a D-Link router configured for PPPoE with ISP Modem bridged: PPPoE Configuration on a Router (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=56344.msg219023#msg219023)
I recommend that you have your ISP check the cabling going to the ISP modem, check signal levels going to the ISP modem. For DSL or Fiber service lines, ensure that the ISP is using good working phone or cable lines to the DSL modem and that the phone lines are filtered correctly. For cable Internet, RG-6 coaxial cable is needed, not RG-59. Check for t.v. line splitters and remove them as they can introduce noise on the line and lower the signal going to the ISP modem. I recommend having the ISP service physically check the lines going from the out side to the ISP modem. Connecting to the ISP modem could result in a false positive as the signal to the modem could be just enough to that point then adding on a router, could see problems. The router operation is dependent upon getting good data flow from the ISP modem and the modem is dependent upon getting good signal from the ISP Service.
Router and Wired Configurations
Some things to try: - Log into the routers web page at 192.168.0.1. Use IE, Opera or FF to manage the router. Besure to log into the Admin account on the router.
- Enable or Disable Use Unicasting (compatibility for some ISP DHCP Servers) and test under Setup/Internet/Manual. Disable may help with speed performance on higher speed ISP services.
- Turn off DNS Relay (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=45143.0) under Setup/Networking. Link>Finding Faster DNS Addresses using Name Bench (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53222.0) and input new DNS addresses under Setup/Internet/Manual.
- Setup DHCP (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=58017.0) reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking. This ensures each devices gets its own IP address when turned on and connected, eliminates IP address conflicts and helps in troubleshooting and maintain consistency for applications that need to connect as well as mapped drives.
- Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address.
Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0) and Managing Signal Congestion (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53228.0) and Good Neighbour Policy (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=10634.0)
- Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Ensure that different SSID names are used between each WiFi 2.4/5Ghz radios. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighbouring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
- What wireless modes are you using?
- 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz routers: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N on 2.4Ghz and single mode N or AC on 5Ghz?
- Try setting a manual Channel (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wireless_channels) to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions. Try channel 48 or 149 on 5Ghz.
- What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_Encryption_Standard), so you might want to try TPIK (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temporal_Key_Integrity_Protocol) only or Auto TPIK and AES.
- What wireless devices do you have connected?
- Ensure any devices with WiFi adapter drivers are updated.
- Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by that maybe causing interferences?
- Any other WiFi routers in the area that maybe causing interferences? Link> Use a WiFi Scanner (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0) to find out. How many?
Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.
Placement on main level floor and central in the building and WELL ventilated is preferred. Not in basements or closets as building materials, or near by electronics devices could interfere or hinder good signal propagation.
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-basics/31083-smallnetbuilders-wireless-faq-the-essentials (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-basics/31083-smallnetbuilders-wireless-faq-the-essentials)