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[Patrick533]

@ Martin Blank,

OK, now that I have some personal time, lets see if we can work something out for you. I have to go to my real job tomorrow, so replies will be sporadic, but unless a war with Iran breaks out, I should have time daily to try and help you as Furry has asked me to. As I stated above, my specialty is RF with a minor in digital. I have used just about every major brand of networking gear out there. My kids have been pushing the limits of home networking for at least a decade. I have drawn the line though, if it requires SFP modules or even takes them, it is a little rich for personal gaming and media (and my wallet).

A few years back I purchased a new product that was not mature and it had some bugs that later got worked out through firmware updates, I have no doubt that your firmware still may have some bugs in it, it was just released 7-8 months ago. I have the Dir-825 which was purchased for it's IPV6 support, which is still stellar to this day, my router at the time was said to reset itself daily. My personal best on it was 6 months and it had to be reset because of internet provider issues. I do not use the RF portion of my Dir-825 any longer, it is not powerful enough to cover the area which I need to cover, but in the beginning I did use the RF section. I have to run 2 A/P's at home, we have too many things connected to WiFi and when the throughput of the WiFi gets saturated, games and media start lagging, so if you have 10 high bandwidth/packet rate clients connected to 1 A/P, that can be a problem and cause stuff to crash. Or gaming parties as my kids do. Want a nightmare? 5 Xbox's and a house full of teenagers on Saturday night, pray your provider does not go down!

I am major leaning towards firmware issues with your series of router just because I had similar problems that the owners of the Dir-657 are having, but I have no doubt that D-Link is working on them and they do read this forum, how often, I have no clue. My personal opinion is that RF should have never been added to these routers, if the internal shielding is not 110%, your going to have problems. My 3 kids have beat the heck out of my home network, and mine could be considered an "extreme" case for most home networks.

My understanding with your case, the WiFi works fine until you enable "N" mode? Sorry to be redundant, but reading through the 5 pages there was a lot of "me too's" from several people.

What WiFi clients are you running/what are you connecting to WiFi with on the other end, what mode of WiFi do they support (B/G/N)?

Lastly, are you interested in a workaround until D-Link fixes any problems we find? The workaround should NOT include turning "N" mode off, because of the Good neighbor policy required by the FCC, I would prefer that we try with 20Mhz channels only though(at first). This will usually get you 65-150Mbps depending on the WiFi client and the distance between the 2. My router will do every bit of 300Mbps with short GI turned on(270 without), but a lot of stuff chokes with short GI because of the quality of the clients radios can't handle a TX-RX transition that fast.

I am more interested in your clients then interference and router settings, though I may just need to verify some router settings initially. Simple stuff like, if you have no "B" clients, set the router to G/N only.










 

[EirikN]

Hello all, I'm not really too good when dealing with routers at all so I'm sure that when I read through this thread I didn't understand some of it.

Anyways, I'm running the DIR-657 right now and it's been having its dropping problems. I bought it a couple months back, maybe in October or so, and it was working fine until a relative screwed up the router somehow by setting it up the router up in a faulty way. My problems may or may not have come as a result of said naive actions by my relative but drops in my connections have started occurring since around that time period. I use a Wii or a Xbox 360 most of the time as well as a laptop running at the same time. Not sure how I should adjust the settings so I kinda need help.

Here are just some of the settings, I'm sure I'll probably need to give more but this is all I really know what to give so far. Sorry for being so bad around routers, haha.

http://i44.tinypic.com/w1bjmv.png

EDIT: Yes, I have reset the router back to factory default settings. I've even tried switching back to my older WBR-2310 router and I just still have the same problems.

I should also note that most of my problems are coming from the wii, although drops do occur with the 360. I can stay online the Wii but whenever I try joining some online room I disconnect in 5 from the room in 5 minutes and my internet drops for a second or two.

[Martin Blank]

ErikN: Make sure you're on the latest firmware.  It's 1.01, and so far available only from the website.  Checking current firmware from within the router doesn't show the update,

I have to run 2 A/P's at home, we have too many things connected to WiFi and when the throughput of the WiFi gets saturated, games and media start lagging, so if you have 10 high bandwidth/packet rate clients connected to 1 A/P, that can be a problem and cause stuff to crash.

I have, at the most, five devices connected:

• Two Samsung Galaxy S II phones
• One HP TouchPad
• One Roku XD
• One Asus notebook with Intel 6150 WiFi card
• One Dell notebook with Intel 4650 WiFi card

On very rare occasions, a Palm Pre is also attached, but that's by far the exception these days and has not been the norm for about three months.  The highest throughput devices are the Roku when streaming (though recently it has been fairly quiet) and the notebook when playing video or various MMORPGs.  My experience with Intel cards has been top-notch.  I've successfully recommended that notebooks at work be purchased with Intel cards instead of the default Broadcom cards that have produced all manner of problems.

My understanding with your case, the WiFi works fine until you enable "N" mode?

Everything works fine under .11g, and things eventually break under .11n.  My suspicion at this point is either a service or a driver.  My reasoning for the former is the odd reply cycle in at least one situation that suggests a buildup of data followed by a rapid release of responses.  My reasoning for the second is the proper functioning of the wireless network under one standard and not the other, even within the same frequency band.

Lastly, are you interested in a workaround until D-Link fixes any problems we find? The workaround should NOT include turning "N" mode off, because of the Good neighbor policy required by the FCC, I would prefer that we try with 20Mhz channels only though(at first).

I've tried that, but I've just reset it to that just because that's the major compatibility variable that makes some level of sense.  MMS works over .11g, as does every other shared setting.  The major difference between them is that .11n uses a different coding for OFDM and it allows for 40MHz bandwidth.  Given the prevalence of .11g APs around here, though, it has zero chance to use it.  It froze up again this evening, but nothing useful appeared in the logs before I finally rebooted it, though I waited for a few hours for something to crash and be visible.  There were no frames whatsoever leaving the router.  Thousands of frames came in, and not one frame left.

I see Atheros hardware involved (port ID ath0), so it may be Atheros's constantly evolving drivers.  They make some good hardware, but their drivers always seem to need some work.  Maybe we'll see some of that (with the recent security fixes) in 1.02.

[FurryNutz]

Lambasting, belittling and getting in our panties all in bind isn't helping either. It was Martin and Jeff who came to the thread and refused any help from me. Martin and I discussed the issues at hand and I hoped that we could conclude to continue to post good information about this issue with out getting into any heated discussions or name calling and belittling anyone.

This is not a contest either between us. I could care less who is an engineer or who has had the longest experience in there particular career or what title people carry. This is forum, again, as I said before, its for trying to help with immediate problems. Any other problems that can't be resolved by us here in the forums get recommended to DLink support directly after that.

Yes, if any good professional useful information provided is also great for users and DLink, and will help improve there products for current and future use. Many users and myself are very grateful for all the extra information that use contribute to the forums. I have made DLink aware of these issues manytimes. However, they carry the pink slip and its' there company. They run it how they desire. If there desires don't match ours then we as consumers who don't find satisfaction have means to let them know directly.We also have means to find other solutions to the dis-satisfaction by finding other solutions. Ranting, flaming and being unprofessional here in the forums is a waste of your time and everyones time. It gets NOTHING accomplished.

This thread has become a bit off topic and distracted away from the OP. I don't even know of the OP has resolved his issue yet, moved on or found something else.

I highly recommend and I would like those of you who want to delve more into this with more detail and troubleshoot this down as far as you can, lets start a new thread.  Call it what you want. I recommend that you remove the most resent posts, copy and paste and move them to the new thread and lets continue to try and be civil please. If not then people need to move on. Theres more to life out there than all this.

@EirikN Please start a new thread and Martin, I, and any others wanting to help you will follow you there and continue to help you out.

Have a great week.

You're confusing posts made by other people.  I never claimed any links between you or Furry and DLink.  I figured that since DLink engineers have titles that say so and you two do not that you are volunteers.  Fans of DLink?  Certainly for Furry, but I just met you, so I have no idea.

I'm sure Furry has helped a lot of people.  Some very basis issues come up that people don't understand and a change of frequencies or other simple fix often addresses them.  My issues with Furry's attempts assistance in this thread have been that they did not address the problems even when they'd already been tried.  He has recommended the same things be tried when they've already failed or when they clearly have nothing to do with the situation.

I did try the various settings early on, and indeed left it on .11g instead of .11n for several weeks.  But I want to find out why the higher speed isn't working.  You're welcome to lend your assistance, but if you've decided that you don't like me, that's fine.  Ignore me and I'll do the same for you.  But lambasting us isn't going to get any issues solved.

[FurryNutz]

There is a beta build available if anyone is interested:
http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53645.0