I have made all of the suggested setting changes now and am monitoring the connectivity.. I made small changes and waiting for it to go down again before I made the next change..
I now have all of the suggested changes done.
I will update once I know if this is still going to go down or not..
I played for about 3 hours on XBL last night with out any disconnections using MS xbox WiFi dual band USB adapter connected to a 1st Gen xbox using the above settings on the router. HT20/40 Coexistence is enabled. Router was reporting 260-270Mb on the status page. I'll test with 2 xboxes tonight.
We playing BO2 now, 2 xboxes. ;D
Well, i've got also a problem with the wifi connection. Wired works like al charm, but wireless is a real problem. I tried all the different suggested settings mentioned in this thread and the other threads, but my laptop (HP Pro-book, Xubuntu) and phone (HTC Desire S, android) are losing the connection, not the wlan connection itself, but I cannot acces the internet after some time, a reboot of the router solves the problem for a random period. While the wired connected computers can acces the internet just fine. Also when I connect my Pro-book wired on the router there is no problem at all.
Strange thing is that when I look into the wireless statuspage of the router (when I cannot acces the internet wireless) there are no wireless clients connected, but my phone and laptop are still connected (wlan status notification on both).
Connecting to my other wireless routers (Asus, Netgear, Linksys) works perfectly.
I think this is my 30th wireless router I configure, including a bunch of myself flashed DD-WRT's, but this is the first time that I cannot solve the problem. I'm running out of options for the first time...
I think (wild guess) the "Power saving by link status" is a part of the problem.
Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=41537.0)
What Hardware version is your router? Look at sticker under router.
Link>What Firmware (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=47512.0) version is currently loaded? Found on routers web page under status.
What region are you located?
Any cordless house phones?
Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer (http://www.metageek.net/) to find out. How many?
Where is this "Power Saving by Link Status" option on the router that you mentioned? Is this an option that can be disabled or enabled?
D-Link Green™ Technology
+ Power saving by link status
+ Power saving by cable length
+ Power saving by wireless LAN scheduling
Ok,
Did you perform a factory reset before and after sending the FW and setting up from scratch?
Have you been in contact with DLink support about this yet. I would recommend that you phone contact Tier 2 or higher and talk to someone about this. Seems like your region is reporting issues with this. I would recommend phone contact. Email would not be of any help here.
Mac Book Test: OSX 10.8.2 on Single Mode N, chl 1, WPA2 and AES only.
(http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa396/furrynutz740il/ScreenShot2013-02-25at41513PM_zps56e3c508.png)
(http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa396/furrynutz740il/ScreenShot2013-02-25at42415PM_zpse4984da9.png)
(http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa396/furrynutz740il/ScreenShot2013-02-25at52402PM_zpsc1aa6622.png)
Each completed with out stopping prematurely.
Was 1 room away from the router, about 11-12ft away.
Will test Windows tomorrow.
I've had great success with changing my wifi channel to channel 4.
The other signals in the are on channel 1 (signal strength -33) and channel 7 (signal strength -64).
Suggest you try channel 11 and use 20mhz channels only to avoid as much channel overlap as possible to get the best stability. Channel 4 is too close to channel 1, and the signal on Channel 1 that you are seeing is quite strong. If you research the wifi channels, you will find that there only 3 non-overlapping channels available.. Channel 1, 6 and 11. People setting their wifi to other channels between these three wreck havoc on their neighbors.
Just need to make sure 11 isn't already in use. Alot of channel usage depends upon if they are in use already and what other WiFi is around. Channel flexibility is limited if there are few to numerous WiFi neighbors around. :-\
Anyone using 1 or 4?
Let us know how 4 or 6 works out for you sir. ;)
There is a beta build of new FW thats available if anyone wants to try it.I have a DIR-657 that's been having the same Mode N problems others have reported (randomly losing wireless connections only, needing to reboot the device to get it back). This update did not fix the problem, though it seems to hold wireless connections longer.
http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?board=295.0 (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?board=295.0)
I have a DIR-657 that's been having the same Mode N problems others have reported (randomly losing wireless connections only, needing to reboot the device to get it back). This update did not fix the problem, though it seems to hold wireless connections longer.
However, this update did break the previously working Mode G. Now Mode G is showing the same symptoms as Mode N.
I'm trying one more time with this update to be sure it's not a configuration problem. After a factory reset, I went through the initial setup wizard, and the only further change is setting the SSID to invisible. I'll report my findings.
What region are you located?
Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
Try setting a manual channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear.
What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto.
What wireless devices do you have connected?
Any cordless house phones?
Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer (http://www.metageek.net/) to find out. How many?
How far are the connecting devices from the 657 router?
Region: Channel Width: Wireless Channel: Security Mode: WPA Mode: Cipher Type: Wireless devices: Cordless phones: Other WiFi routers: Distance from router: | North America. Auto 20/40 MHz. Auto. Lands on channel 11. WPA-Personal. Auto (WPA or WPA2). TKIP and AES. Two Android phones and one wireless printer. None that I'm aware of. Yes. Testing at the router location, InSSIDer sees 4. Varies. Usually within 20 feet. |
Region: Channel Width: Wireless Channel: Security Mode: WPA Mode: Cipher Type: Wireless devices: Cordless phones: Other WiFi routers: Distance from router: | North America. Auto 20/40 MHz. Auto. Lands on channel 11. Try setting manual Channel 11 instead of Auto. WPA-Personal. Auto (WPA or WPA2). Try WPA2 Only as a test. TKIP and AES. Try AES Only as a test. Then try WPA and TPIK only as a test. Two Android phones and one wireless printer. None that I'm aware of. Yes. Testing at the router location, InSSIDer sees 4. Varies. Usually within 20 feet. |
Did you upgrade to the v1.02 version?Yes, I upgraded to v1.02(beta).
Channel Width:
Wireless Channel:
Security Mode:
WPA Mode:
Cipher Type:
Wireless devices:
Cordless phones:
Other WiFi routers:
Distance from router:North America.
Auto 20/40 MHz.
Auto. Lands on channel 11. Try setting manual Channel 11 instead of Auto.
WPA-Personal.
Auto (WPA or WPA2). Try WPA2 Only as a test.
TKIP and AES. Try AES Only as a test. Then try WPA and TPIK only as a test.
Two Android phones and one wireless printer.
None that I'm aware of.
Yes. Testing at the router location, InSSIDer sees 4.
Varies. Usually within 20 feet.
InSSIDer suggests channel 11 since there's one AP on channel 1, one AP on channel 6, and two APs on channel 7. The AP on channel 1 is the strongest, followed by the AP on channel 6. I presume the APs are neighboring WiFi that do not belong to you?
All of the above settings are the default for the router going through the initial setup wizard. Anyway, after setting the router to the above configuration (factory default plus hidden SSID), the router went all Monday, all Tuesday, and Wednesday morning before dropping WiFi connections again. During this time, I powered off the router at night, powered on at morning.
I'm going to keep testing to see if any configuration changes make things better or worse. Otherwise, I'm going to roll back to the previous firmware, set to Mode G only.
Also try testing with the Power setting of the radio under Advanded/Advanced Wireless to Medium to see if that does anything.
Try G with WPA2 and TPIK only as well.Mode G, WPA2, AES failed. Unfortunately, my wireless printer does not like TPIK, so that's a no go.
Do you have any friends, or family you can take this router to and test temporarily by chance? Just curious to see if this problem follows.
Do ALL devices loose connection? Test one device at a time? Turn OFF ALL devices except for one and test, then graduate turning on the rest.
I too, have the same exact problem as above. I do hope that a fix is soon in-bound. Would be a shame to have a wireless n router that can't be used with wireless n enabled. :)
I have been resetting it and trying different settings for months, as well. I actually have two of them. Both doing the same exact thing.
I too, have the same exact problem as above. I do hope that a fix is soon in-bound. Would be a shame to have a wireless n router that can't be used with wireless n enabled. :)
I have been resetting it and trying different settings for months, as well. I actually have two of them. Both doing the same exact thing.
Any status on this?
Hmmm..having those other wifi routers near by could also be causing problems. I would hoping the lowering the power might help. Darn it.
Ok, can you try this?
Set single mode N, then try single mode G then B.
Set a manual channel thats not being used if possible, pick one. Try 4 or 8 maybe?
Set the Band Width to 20Mhz Only.
Turn OFF WiFi security as a test, can turn it on later.
Do any of the device still disconnect after trying these modes with the suggested settings?
I'm attempting to see if any of these setting help or not.
That's why I wanted to provide my info. Hard to fix when you don't have any info to go on. Troubleshooting is a process of elimination. :)
It could be hardware related. Especially since AES is a common theme in at least my disconnections.
Give the connection about 15-30 minutes. Always a good interval to test on.
I'll continue to mess around with it a bit, to get anymore info.
I'll contact d-link support as soon as I can. thank you for all your hard work.
Still connected as of right now. No disconnects during the night being reported by any devices.JoeKhar, I'm having the same issues as you are. I found that 1.02 kept Mode N for a much longer time, maybe even longer than a day, but still eventually failed. However, I found that rev 1.02, Mode G only, WPA2, AES failed very quickly. When you are finished testing Mode N, would you mind setting your device to Mode G only to see if your device also shows the same symptoms?
1.02 works with the settings.
1.01 does not.
I'll stick with the beta firmware until further notice.
JoeKhar, I'm having the same issues as you are. I found that 1.02 kept Mode N for a much longer time, maybe even longer than a day, but still eventually failed. However, I found that rev 1.02, Mode G only, WPA2, AES failed very quickly. When you are finished testing Mode N, would you mind setting your device to Mode G only to see if your device also shows the same symptoms?
Also, were either you or FurryNutz able to get an IPv6 address from the router? At rev 1.01, I was able to, but not at rev 1.02.
Ok, I can confirm that IPv6 addresses are not being handed out to my Mac Book Pro OSX 10.7.5. I tired Local Only connection and enabled Auto Detection on the IPv6 Manual Internet and Enabled the Local LAN options as well, rebooting and watch my network settings to populate. Only IPv4 populated. :(This is what I did too, except I was running Windows 7. At Rev 1.01, an IPv6 address was assigned, but Rev 1.02 did not assign an address.
I have sent this to my contact at D-Link for there review. Please be patient while the information is reviewed.
After 24 hours, my devices are still connected. No disconnects at all.Reviewing what I tested early, it took me 2.5 days (powering off at night, on at morning) before the router started malfunctioning on Mode N.
Not saying it is fixed, but a good step in that direction. I'm keeping one router up with the same settings, going to test out g with AES shortly on the other router.
JDW, whenever you can, if you can give me your exact settings you used, that would be helpful. :) For Mode G with AES (20hz mode etc)
Just to compare.
Reviewing what I tested early, it took me 2.5 days (powering off at night, on at morning) before the router started malfunctioning on Mode N.
Anyway, here were my setting to get Mode G to fail:
Mode G only, Channel 11, WPA2 Only, AES Only, and medium power setting. Everything else was factory default.
What has been the behavior of the router if you don't power off the router at night then back on in the morning? Usually these routers don't need to be powered off at all.Leaving it powered on, the wireless connection eventually quit. My cable modem, router, tv, etc... all go to one power strip, so it's very easy to completely power everything off at night when they are not in use (saving a little money).
Reviewing what I tested early, it took me 2.5 days (powering off at night, on at morning) before the router started malfunctioning on Mode N.
Anyway, here were my setting to get Mode G to fail:
Mode G only, Channel 11, WPA2 Only, AES Only, and medium power setting. Everything else was factory default.
Can you do us a test and put the routers power adapter on a separate power strip or wall out let with out any other devices connected? Wondering if there could be some problem with all your devices connected to one strip on one out let. It's not recommended to put T.V.s on the same circuit as other devices as t.v.'s draw more power. Also could be introducing some interferences on the power line.I tested this, and the router still failed.
Loaded up my other router with the same settings as him. Have two devices connected. Will update accordingly.Channel auto-scan off. Manually set to channel 11.
Channel 11 - WPA 2 - AES Only - Mode G -
Been about 10 minutes so far.
Also, the other router is still connected with my other devices using N. A day and a half straight. We'll see how it goes.
Edit: JDW are you running with channel autoscan on or off?
I tested this, and the router still failed.
Connected to power strip A was only the router and the cable modem (Motorola SB6121).
Connected to power strip B was the tv, etc....
Anyway, I turned off power strip B, rebooted the router and cable modem, and the router still failed without power strip B ever being turned on.
If I get the time, I may try moving the router to a different location to see if anything changes. Any other ideas?
took a few days, but it finally disconnected. Not accepting anymore connections. Have to reboot everything (routers).
There is nothing left on my side to troubleshoot. I have redone every single setting in pretty much every combination.
Back to G.
took a few days, but it finally disconnected. Not accepting anymore connections. Have to reboot everything (routers).JoeKhar, did your router ever fail with firmware rev 1.02, mode G? Mine eventually did. Rev 1.01, mode G is fine though. Perhaps D-Link will fix these issues when they fix the rev 1.02, IPv6 issue.
There is nothing left on my side to troubleshoot. I have redone every single setting in pretty much every combination.
Back to G.
JoeKhar, did your router ever fail with firmware rev 1.02, mode G? Mine eventually did. Rev 1.01, mode G is fine though. Perhaps D-Link will fix these issues when they fix the rev 1.02, IPv6 issue.
JDW, are you located in the U.S. or Canada?U.S.
U.S.
JoeKhar, did your router ever fail with firmware rev 1.02, mode G? Mine eventually did. Rev 1.01, mode G is fine though. Perhaps D-Link will fix these issues when they fix the rev 1.02, IPv6 issue.
Can I ask where you are located? U.S.?
What Rev model is your 655?
DIR-655 H/W - A3
yea, U.S.
At this point, no. I'm looking at new routers to be honest. Unless a firmware upgrade comes out later on.
I don't want to spend anymore money on my current routers.
I would like to thank you for all your work on here, though.
Either one of you two be interesting in letting me test your routers out?Sorry, but the DIR-657 is my only router. Have you tried connecting an Android device to your DIR-657 yet? Android + DIR-657 + Mode N + AES seems to be a common theme for failures. And I also appreciate your assistance.
Thats the only think I don't have and probably if I did, I would noticed it.Actually, it's a Motorola device running Android version 2.3.5 (they are up to rev 4.x now). Still, it could be the interaction between Android's and D-Link's implementation of the AES standard.
I presume that if you are using Samsung devices, this could be an issue as stated here:
http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=54171.0 (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=54171.0)
I see that D-Link has fixed the DIR-655 Rev A FW recently.
I'll approach D-Link regarding the 657 and Samsung issue.
Hello, I am having a similar problem with my DIR-657 wireless connection.Try this, as this has worked for me and others:
It's A1, 1.01, 11bgn, 20/40, channel 6 (AUTO), TKIP and AES, cable modem.
I don't use the wireless connection, but my family members are having trouble connecting/staying connected.
If I reboot the router I can connect, but eventually devices are dropped, and won't reconnect without another reboot.
I will have to test how long connections are lasting, but I've been able to connect phones, ipad, kindle, wii, tv, and have had the same problem with all devices.
I will try some of the suggestions in this thread, but it will take some time as I am just learning.
Hello, I am having a similar problem with my DIR-657 wireless connection.
It's A1, 1.01, 11bgn, 20/40, channel 6 (AUTO), TKIP and AES, cable modem.
I don't use the wireless connection, but my family members are having trouble connecting/staying connected.
If I reboot the router I can connect, but eventually devices are dropped, and won't reconnect without another reboot.
I will have to test how long connections are lasting, but I've been able to connect phones, ipad, kindle, wii, tv, and have had the same problem with all devices.
I will try some of the suggestions in this thread, but it will take some time as I am just learning.
Sorry, but the DIR-657 is my only router. Have you tried connecting an Android device to your DIR-657 yet? Android + DIR-657 + Mode N + AES seems to be a common theme for failures. And I also appreciate your assistance.
Did D-Link mention anything about the IPv6 issue?
Well, I got some information regarding the 657. New FW is to be released soon, no mention of what it fixes however I presume it in regards to WiFi and probably Samsung and or Motorola client device operation with the 657. Bad news is is that they are not going to do anything about IPv6 operation since the 657 is headed for EOL from what they say. Undecided Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. I personally feel that the 657 didn't get enough TLC during it's life span. It was said that if IPv6 users need help with the 657, to call in to D-Link support and get a solution, weather that be a FW fix or maybe something else, I don't know. So please contact D-Link support directly on the phone. Ask for level 2 or 3 or higher support I would recommend.Thank you for the update. Hopefully they'll get mode N working for those of us who are having issues. That's too bad about IPv6 though, especially since it's working on Rev 1.01 firmware.
It has been a good router, for me at least. I presume the WiFi issues seen are isolated to some specific client products and I'm hoping that D-Link will address them before they officially stop development.
Please be patient while we wait on the next FW build. I'm keeping an eye on it's arrival. The new FW should include the Samsung issue seen and was mentioned that this effects this model router, the 655 and 825 series. The 655 Rev A has now been fixed and FW was released. I presume Rev B could see a release as well. I haven't seen anything for the 825 yet.
I'll keep everyone posted.
Changed to Mixed G and N.
Cipher Auto TPIK & AES
and HT 20/40 Enabled...
One week test. I'll be back.
Thanks. ;D ;DTHANK YOU
My HW version is A1, and my Firmware version is 1.02.
I'm not using any cell phones in my network and still having connection problems with my notebook.
I don't see any point of buying three times more expensive DAP and still using the old device.
I understand that Forum Moderator is not awolled to speak about any hardware changes to any devices.
So I'm asking if someone from the regular users had tried the external antenna mod as in the video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q7gZ2Ouy3VU
Just retuned this device to the shop and got different brand. Cannot believe that I can still buy it, and all devices are not returend to manufacturer.
Only because of this dir-657 I will never think about of buying any Dlink again >:(