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[JavaLawyer]

Have you tried manually reloading the latest firmware using the DCS-932L web UI? Links to performing firmware upgrades are provided on the following post: Network Cameras - Important Posts & Information.

You may also want to try powering down other D-Link cameras on your network while setting up the problematic camera.

[ReverendTed]

I'm worried I may have a toasted DCS-932L.
A little over a week ago, I started noticing a blue LED shining behind the unit, but didn't really get a chance to take a closer look until I noticed it wasn't recording.  The final recording doesn't show anything unusual right up until the moment the signal dropped.
There's a solid red LED on the front and the blue (WPS?) LED on the back.  Tried power cycling it, and depressing the reset button to no avail.  Plugged an Ethernet cable between the camera and a laptop and the laptop doesn't even register that the cable's been plugged in.

I may tinker with it a bit more, but I've got a feeling it's kaput.
It's been running indoors pretty much non-stop since early Feb 2014, so just over a year.  The other DCS-932L I purchased at the same time is still going, as of right now.

[Bluezoo]

- I think your camera is in recovery mode
- Try to assign static IP address 192.168.0.20 to your computer
- Open your browser to access your camera gui (firmware upgrade gui will shows up) then browse to your firmware bin file then upload it
- Once upload is complete, obtain the IP address of your computer. you must have a green light to your camera hardwired to your router
- Get the DHCP IP address of the camera from your router
- Access your router GUI then change the wireless mode to WPA2 only
- Access your camera GUI go to wireless settings connect
- Scan for available network and connect to your own WI-FI
- I got the same case too..I locked my router to WPA2 only to be able to connect wirelessly to my router. WPA/WPA2 auto will not work

[lorddennisjoplin]

If you performed a factory reset and still can't get to the web UI through a direct connection, and the router can't see the device (looking at the router UI device table), then the device may be rendered inoperable.

At any point while the camera was working, did you try to upgrade the firmware through a wireless connection that broke during the upgrade process? That sort of scenario can break the camera.

I think this is what happened to me Is there any other way to fix it?

[lorddennisjoplin]

Okay, I just read this thread.

The firmware upgrade was taking too long, that's why I closed the window. Didn't think the camera would be unusable after that!

[FurryNutz]

I recommend that you phone contact your regional D-Link support office and ask for help and information regarding this. We find that phone contact has better immediate results over using email or FB> https://www.facebook.com/mydlink?fref=ts.
Let us know how it goes please.

Okay, I just read this thread.

The firmware upgrade was taking too long, that's why I closed the window. Didn't think the camera would be unusable after that!

[robert-e]

The following is from  http://wiki.openwrt.org/toh/d-link/dcs-930l
It also applies to the dcs932l.

Quote
There is an emergency web interface, which has to be used to flash OpenWrt.
Uploading via the regular web interface does not work.

    Disconnect Power
    Press and hold "Reset", connect Power and hold Reset until the blue LED goes out (about 8 seconds).
    Release reset
    Configure your computer to 192.168.0.x
    Fire up a web browser and connect to 192.168.0.20
    Upload your new firmware in the emergency web interface
Unquote

If the above is true, then you could use this method to re-install your Dlink dcs932l firmware to the camera.  Be sure to have the correct firmware downloaded, and know where to find it on your computer.  If networking is all "voodoo" to you, have someone on hand
who understands networking and flashing firmware.

However, do try dlink support before doing anything.  If dlink support fails you, then you have nothing to lose by attempting to revive your camera.

Regards,
Bob

[FurryNutz]

You can Hyper link your URLs. Use the 2nd row, 2nd button over from the left in the forum tool bar.

Thank you.

[robert-e]

Thanks for that info...did not realize that..I will do that in the future.  I am always reticent in posting urls..some web forums frown on the practice.

On a total off topic...I got out my cabling today, and finally got a good flash back onto the old dl-534 router...I know, it is really old, but I had to try.
I will not likely use it much, if at all' but the challenge was there.. lol .  I do note that the switching power supply seems to be a lot warmer than it
used to get.  I wonder if bad power supply might have precipitated the failure?

Anyway...thanks

Regards
Bob


Edit  dl-534 -> dl-524    was typo

[FurryNutz]

Power supplies have been known to go bad.

I had a DIR-645 online for a bit in the past couple of weeks. Been checking out the old stuff I have. I may put my DGL-4500 online. It's fun to play with the old stuff here and there.

Enjoy. 

[am959]

This may help: I tried to extend the power supply cable to the 932L by about 10m by cutting the existing wires and joining in a length of low-voltage cable. Straight away the red-light issue happened. After trying to reset it a few times unsuccessfully, and a lot of head scratching, i thought to take out the extra length of cable, and try again. The camera worked fine as before, the green light came on first time.

Hence, it seems to me the power supply is just about adequate enough to power the camera, but probably close to the edge. Trying a different power supply with a higher current output capacity should make the camera more reliable IMHO.

[FurryNutz]

Actually it would not be the power supply if it's used as it is designed for. Adding additional cable between the adapter and plug is not recommended and it increases the distance the electrons have to travel. In this case the adapter was not designed to send electrons over the intended design of the adapter and cable length.

Not maybe adding a power extension cable between the adapter and wall out let can be done. Just not in between the adapter and camera.

This may help: I tried to extend the power supply cable to the 932L by about 10m by cutting the existing wires and joining in a length of low-voltage cable. Straight away the red-light issue happened. After trying to reset it a few times unsuccessfully, and a lot of head scratching, i thought to take out the extra length of cable, and try again. The camera worked fine as before, the green light came on first time.

Hence, it seems to me the power supply is just about adequate enough to power the camera, but probably close to the edge. Trying a different power supply with a higher current output capacity should make the camera more reliable IMHO.

[robert-e]

@am959 et al:
I think there was a thread wrt this on this forum a couple of years ago; you might want to do a search for it.  However, the "copper wire table" predicts for an 18 guage (often used for lamp cord) a resistance of approx. 6.5 ohms/1000 ft.  If you used 10 ft. for your extra cable, the added resistance would be .065 ohms; which at 1.2 amps (camera spec.) would result in a voltage drop of less than 0.1 volt at the camera.  Compare this to a line voltage flucuation of 10 volts on a nominal 115 volt line.  IF this were transformed to 5 volts needed by the camera, the voltage change would be 0.4 volts.  Of course, this should not happen with a switching regulator of decent design. 

All that being said; if you used a common extension cord to reach from the wall socket to near the camera power supply, you should not have any problem with a voltage drop, assuming that dlink's engineers have done their homework for the equipment you have purchased.  Not sure about this, as I believe if the camera malfunctions because of 0.1 volt drop, that is not very good endineering.

OTOH, 1000's of these cameras are in use with the power cube supplied, and I don't hear about any problems.  So, bottom line:  Use an extension cord.

Regards,
Bob

[lorddennisjoplin]

I recommend that you phone contact your regional D-Link support office and ask for help and information regarding this. We find that phone contact has better immediate results over using email or FB> https://www.facebook.com/mydlink?fref=ts.
Let us know how it goes please.

Yup! I got it replaced. I was able to set up the new item last night. I checked the live stream at like 11:30PM before going to sleep. Then when I woke up, I checked the live stream again but it was disconnected already. Now it has a solid red light too, and smells toasted. Hmm Does it mean it overheated? It's kinda frustrating.

[lorddennisjoplin]

I'm going to have this replaced again. But our warranty is only until the 20th of this month! I hope the next one wouldn't be toasted  too.

Do you think putting it in a cooler place would help?