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[Dunegoon]

I've had my DIR-857 for a couple of years and it has been awesome and rock solid..... until a few weeks ago.  Upon investigation, I determined that the wireless and the internal hardwired LAN were working fine, just the Internet access was down.  The first time it happened, I did the usual ISP (Charter) shuffle:  Shut down everything and then power up things in logical order.  First the cable modem (Surfboard 6121), then the DIR-857, then the PCs.  That works.  But the connection started  going down a few times a day, so I soon got on Google with search strings about "connection down DIR-857", etc.  Most of the links took me to this board.  So now I have been through all of the posts and FAQs here that seem to apply and have made a few router changes as a result. 

What has changed?  We recently brought a couple of Samsung S5 smart phones home....  Just thought I'd mention that.

Anyway, I reviewed the router configuration, saved a backup, and then:

• Removed all QOS.  Won't miss it anyways, no gaming here.
• Reserved all address in DHCP for most of the devices on the network that use DHCP (a work in process)
• Shut down 5GHz Wifi since it's not used as far as I can tell
• Reviewed subnet settings: mask is 255.255.255.0, DHCP runs form 192.168.100-199, infrastructure items are device set at 192.168.0.1, 2, 3, 4 etc. and the cable modem web interface is 192.168.1.100 (outside my network, right.)
• All WAN traffic shaping is off
• Enable UPnP is still on.  Should I turn this off?  I don't know what would use it.
• I think all the Advanced setting are off or at default.
• Upgraded to firmware version 1.04.  It appeared to have saved the previous configuration correctly, I visually inspected every menu item to verify it.

We bought the DIR-857 for  its throughput.  My wife is a CPA and works over the Internet.  This network must work flawlessly during tax season, she says.    I have an auto shop and machine shop on it as well.  I have used all my previous routers as APs and switches: A DIR 825, DIR-625 and a WR54G Linksys.  Cat 6 cables everywhere, everything that counts is hardwire.  ISP is typically 40 megs down, 5 megs up and 50-150 ping.

All of my LAN and WiFi seems to be rock solid, It's just the ISP connection that is the problem.  No, I haven't called them (are you kidding? )  The cablemodem admin page shows no abnormalities anyways.

here is a typical log fragment:
Time    Message
Dec 3 23:12:42    UDHCPD Inform: add_lease 192.168.0.102
Dec 3 23:12:42    UDHCPD Inform: add_lease 192.168.0.100
Dec 3 23:02:39    UDHCPD Inform: add_lease 192.168.0.102
Dec 3 23:02:39    UDHCPD Inform: add_lease 192.168.0.100
Dec 3 22:52:37    UDHCPD Inform: add_lease 192.168.0.102
Dec 3 22:52:36    UDHCPD Inform: add_lease 192.168.0.100
Dec 3 22:52:25    Debu: Joining group 224.0.0.251 upstream on IF address 97.90.124.41
Dec 3 22:52:25    Debu: Leaving group 224.0.0.251 upstream on IF address 97.90.124.41
Dec 3 22:52:25    Debu: Joining group 224.0.0.251 upstream on IF address 97.90.124.41
Dec 3 22:52:25    Debu: Leaving group 224.0.0.251 upstream on IF address 97.90.124.41

When it has failed, I just don't see a "Debu: Joining group 224.0.0.251 upstream on IF address 97.90.124.41" entry.

Well, I'm off to turn off the WiFi on the  new phones.   We don't have cell coverage at this location, so they'll  be bricks for a day or so....

Any help will be appreciated, of course.

[FurryNutz]

Link>Welcome!

• What region are you located?
• Has a Factory Reset been performed?
• Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch?

>FW Update Process

Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations

• What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
• What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
• Is ISP Modem/Service using Dynamic or Static WAN IP addressing?
• What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have?
• Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended.
• Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values
• For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.

I recommend that you have your ISP check the cabling going to the ISP modem, check signal levels going to the ISP modem. For DSL or Fiber service lines, ensure that the ISP is using good working phone or cable lines to the DSL modem and that the phone lines are filtered correctly. For cable Internet, RG-6 coaxial cable is needed, not RG-59. Check for t.v. line splitters and remove them as they can introduce noise on the line and lower the signal going to the ISP modem. I recommend having the ISP service physically check the lines going from the out side to the ISP modem. Connecting to the ISP modem could result in a false positive as the signal to the modem could be just enough to that point then adding on a router, could see problems. The router operation is dependent upon getting good data flow from the ISP modem and the modem is dependent upon getting good signal from the ISP Service.

Router and Wired Configurations
Some things to try: - Log into the routers web page at 192.168.0.1. Use IE, Opera or FF to manage the router. Besure to log into the Admin account on the router.

• Turn off Advanced DNS Services if you have this option under Setup/Internet/Manual or under Setup/PARENTAL CONTROL/Set to>None: Static IP or Obtain Automatically From ISP.
• Enable or Disable Use Unicasting (compatibility for some ISP DHCP Servers) and test under Setup/Internet/Manual. Disable may help with speed performance on higher speed ISP services.
• Turn on DNS Relay  under Setup/Networking. Link>Finding Faster DNS Addresses using Name Bench and input new DNS addresses under Setup/Internet/Manual.
• Setup DHCP reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking. This ensures each devices gets its own IP address when turned on and connected, eliminates IP address conflicts and helps in troubleshooting and maintain consistency for applications that need to connect as well as mapped drives.
• Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address.
• If IPv6 is an option on the router, select Local Connection Only under Setup/IPv6.
• Set Firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP under Advanced/Firewall. Enable or Disable SPI to test.
• Enable uPnP and Multi-cast Streaming under Advanced/Networking. Disable uPnP for testing Port Forwarding rules. Enable IPv6 Multi-cast Streaming for routers that have a Media Server option. Disable IPv6 Multi-cast Streaming if IPv6 or Media Server is not being used.
• Turn off WISH, and WPS under Advanced.
• WAN Port Speed set to Auto or specific speed? Some newer ISP modems support 1000Mb so manually setting to Gb speeds can be supported by the router. Advanced/Advanced Networking/WAN Port Speed
• Set current Time Zone, Date and Time. Use an NTP Server feature. The DST setting is only needed in the NA region. Tools/Time.

Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations and Managing Signal Congestion and Good Neighbour Policy

• Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighboring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
• What wireless modes are you using?
• 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz routers: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N on 2.4Ghz and single mode N or AC on 5Ghz?
• Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
• Try setting a manual Channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions. Try channel 48 or 149 on 5Ghz.
• What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto TPIK and AES.
• Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by that maybe causing interferences?
• Any other WiFi routers in the area that maybe causing interferences? Link> Use InSSIDer to find out. How many? Use v3, its free.
• If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI, WLAN Partition, Extra Wireless Protection and HT 20/40 Co-existence if you have it. Also testing with HT20/40Mhz Co-existence enabled will impact results as well. I prefer to use this option OFF. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.

Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.
Placement on main level floor and central in the building and WELL ventilated is preferred. Not in basements or closets as building materials, or near by electronics devices could interfere or hinder good signal propagation.
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-basics/31083-smallnetbuilders-wireless-faq-the-essentials

[Dunegoon]

Link>Welcome!
Thanks for the quick reply, I think you have a template of good ideas ready!  I have some news to report:  It dropped at 8:13 AM this morning and, as usual, there was nothing new in the logs.   So I started a 24 hour test of running the two Samsung S5 phones with the WiFi turned OFF.  Even more excitement occurred at about 10:30 AM today when the ISP fell flat- no signals to the cable modem AND no signal to the telephone-cable box (another service from Charter. I think it runs on separate logical infrastructure from the Internet service.)  Anyways, both down, dead cable, no signaling at all. Cable TV still up, which tells me that the cable plant and the line amplifiers were OK, therefore a head-end issue.

It's back up as of 6:00PM.  Now I am wondering if I had been seeing some early warning signs of a failure on their end.  Time will tell.

• What region are you located?

I am in Roseburg Oregon

• Has a Factory Reset been performed?
• Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch?

>FW Update Process
No factory reset, just a firmware upgrade to 1.04.  I think this is a good idea to do but if a person changes multiple things at once, you never know what fixed it.  So, I think I'll wait 24 hours and then make the reset part of the next phase.
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations

• What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?

Charter Cable bundle: TV, Internet, telephone.

• What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?

I own and manage the modem.  It is a Motorola SB6121.  It's on 192.168.100.1 and I use a web browser to monitor it.  I don't change things there, just monitor or remote reboot.

• Is ISP Modem/Service using Dynamic or Static WAN IP addressing?

It's Dynamic and I don't see a place to change that.  But the DIR-857 is set for Dynamic (DHCP) to match.

• What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have?

Downstream    Bonding Channel Value
Channel ID    4     1     2     3
Frequency    621000000 Hz    603000000 Hz    609000000 Hz    615000000 Hz
Signal to Noise Ratio    37 dB    37 dB    37 dB    37 dB
Downstream Modulation    QAM256    QAM256    QAM256    QAM256
Power Level
The Downstream Power Level reading is a snapshot taken at the time this page was requested. Please Reload/Refresh this Page for a new reading
   -3 dBmV     -3 dBmV     -3 dBmV     -2 dBmV 

Upstream    Bonding Channel Value
Channel ID    4
Frequency    31000000 Hz
Ranging Service ID    5391
Symbol Rate    5.120 Msym/sec
Power Level    40 dBmV
Upstream Modulation    [3] 16QAM
[3] 64QAM
 
Ranging Status    Success


As per my previous message, I typically see around 40 Megabits down, 5 Megabits up from this

• Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended.
• Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values

Nice write up, will do.

• For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.

No DSL.

I recommend that you have your ISP check the cabling going to the ISP modem, check signal levels going to the ISP modem. For DSL or Fiber service lines, ensure that the ISP is using good working phone or cable lines to the DSL modem and that the phone lines are filtered correctly. For cable Internet, RG-6 coaxial cable is needed, not RG-59. Check for t.v. line splitters and remove them as they can introduce noise on the line and lower the signal going to the ISP modem. I recommend having the ISP service physically check the lines going from the out side to the ISP modem. Connecting to the ISP modem could result in a false positive as the signal to the modem could be just enough to that point then adding on a router, could see problems. The router operation is dependent upon getting good data flow from the ISP modem and the modem is dependent upon getting good signal from the ISP Service.
This is all in great shape- RG-11 incoming.  The cable tech and I spend an afternoon getting this all perfect (last year, though)

Router and Wired Configurations
Some things to try: - Log into the routers web page at 192.168.0.1. Use IE, Opera or FF to manage the router. Besure to log into the Admin account on the router.

• Turn off Advanced DNS Services if you have this option under Setup/Internet/Manual or under Setup/PARENTAL CONTROL/Set to>None: Static IP or Obtain Automatically From ISP.

No advanced, OK here.

• Enable or Disable Use Unicasting (compatibility for some ISP DHCP Servers) and test under Setup/Internet/Manual. Disable may help with speed performance on higher speed ISP services.

Unicasting is off, seems to work fine this way.

• Turn on DNS Relay  under Setup/Networking. Link>Finding Faster DNS Addresses using Name Bench and input new DNS addresses under Setup/Internet/Manual.

Previously done, Name Bench works great.

• Setup DHCP reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking. This ensures each devices gets its own IP address when turned on and connected, eliminates IP address conflicts and helps in troubleshooting and maintain consistency for applications that need to connect as well as mapped drives.

Previously done.

• Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address.

Previously done.

• If IPv6 is an option on the router, select Local Connection Only under Setup/IPv6.

Previously done.

• Set Firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP under Advanced/Firewall. Enable or Disable SPI to test.

SPI and anti-spoofing is on, Previously done. Endpoint Independent not found on this model?

• Enable uPnP and Multi-cast Streaming under Advanced/Networking. Disable uPnP for testing Port Forwarding rules. Enable IPv6 Multi-cast Streaming for routers that have a Media Server option. Disable IPv6 Multi-cast Streaming if IPv6 or Media Server is not being used.

I've had uPnP off and off and on, makes no difference.  I left it on but I don't know what uses it really.

• Turn off WISH, and WPS under Advanced.

No WISH or WPS, previously turned off.

• WAN Port Speed set to Auto or specific speed? Some newer ISP modems support 1000Mb so manually setting to Gb speeds can be supported by the router. Advanced/Advanced Networking/WAN Port Speed

I left it on auto

• Set current Time Zone, Date and Time. Use an NTP Server feature. The DST setting is only needed in the NA region. Tools/Time.

NTP and DST all set up.


Wireless ConfigurationsAll of my WiFi works perfectly, always.
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations and Managing Signal Congestion and Good Neighbour Policy

• Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighboring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
• What wireless modes are you using?
• 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz routers: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N on 2.4Ghz and single mode N or AC on 5Ghz?
• Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
• Try setting a manual Channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions. Try channel 48 or 149 on 5Ghz.
• What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto TPIK and AES.
• Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by that maybe causing interferences?
• Any other WiFi routers in the area that maybe causing interferences? Link> Use InSSIDer to find out. How many? Use v3, its free.
• If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI, WLAN Partition, Extra Wireless Protection and HT 20/40 Co-existence if you have it. Also testing with HT20/40Mhz Co-existence enabled will impact results as well. I prefer to use this option OFF. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.

Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.
Placement on main level floor and central in the building and WELL ventilated is preferred. Not in basements or closets as building materials, or near by electronics devices could interfere or hinder good signal propagation.
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-basics/31083-smallnetbuilders-wireless-faq-the-essentials

[FurryNutz]

Sounds like this could be a ISP service issue. Keep us posted on how it goes over the next day or two. This is a solid router and works well. It does depend on good service from the ISP though.  You have a good ISP modem too. I have the 6121 as well. Motorola makes good modems.

Keep us posted. 

[Dunegoon]

Update:
WiFi was turned off on both of the Android 4.4.2 (Samsung S5) phones since my last posting.  While they were off, Charter had a network outage.  I had some hopes that my problems were actually due to something on their end and that whatever they replaced would help me somehow.   Additionally. I took the time to clear the DIR-857 router to factory defaults and then hand configured all of the entries from previously printed notes (screen shots).  With Charter back up and several days of good performance, I decided to enable WiFi on one of the phones last night.  BINGO! --- the router locked up at 7:50 am this morning.  I've spend some time this morning looking at logs, about 1/2 hour before rebooting the router, and then even more time trying to find anything inside the phone that occurred at about the same time.  I don't yet know how to find activity logs in Android.

Note again that only Internet connectivity is affected on the router.  WiFi and local LAN is always up and good.

It's going to be hard to discover the cause of this, I fear, because there is not much in the way of log tools or traces of any kind to go from.

[FurryNutz]

Lets test the WiFi with 5Ghz disabled only,

2.4Ghz:
Lets try single mode G on manual channel 11 if nobody else is using it, if someone else is try 1 or 6. Set WPA and TPIK only and manual channel width of 20Mhz.

Report any router problems. If nothing,
Try single mode N, manual channel 11 if nobody else is using it, if someone else is try 1 or 6. Set WPA2/AES only and Auto Channel width. Disable HT20/40Mhz Coexistence. Report any router problems.

Where is the 857 place?
Do you have a laptop cooler by chance?

[Dunegoon]

I'll drop the 5Ghz, nothing uses it except a few guests from time-to-time.
 
Only the Internet functions are going down, the WiFi network remains completely functional and I have tested its functions thoroughly both when the Internet has failed and during normal operations.  This seems to be a dead end as far as troubleshooting.  But, If you have some theory as to why the WiFi is shutting down the Internet, speak up!

It's not all that simple either:

192.168.0.1 is the DIR-857, the WiFi channel is set to 1.  This is the WAN interface, it sits next to the cable modem (192.168.1.100)  This equipment, along with a 24 port 10/100 switch is located in the wiring closet on the first floor.

192.168.0.2 is the DIR-825, WiFi channel 11, AP mode (no DHCP, hardwire link to the DIR-857), located on 2nd floor.

192.168.0.3 is Linksys, WiFi channel 8, AP mode (no DHCP, hardwire link to the DIR-857), in the machine shop about 100' away.

192.168.0.4 is DIR-625, WiFi channel 4,  AP mode (no DHCP, hardwire link to the DIR-857), in the machine shop about 100' away but 60' distant from the Linksys.

All this stuff works killer good and has for years.  Very important: almost all of my equipment is actually hardwire-CAT6 connected, wireless is more for occasional usage when I have to carry a laptop or wireless device away from its normal location.  In fact, only the Samsung S5 phones really require the WiFi.

Sort of off-topic: We also run a Cradlepoint router in the RV and it uses an AT&T telco-wireless dongle to give us mobile office functions while on vacation (although working on vacation sucks!)

Now, for why I really logged in tonight------------------

I have Wireshark set up on one of my laptops,  I've used it a few times in the past but I'm kind of "rusty" with it.  Wireshark is a network packet capture and analysis tool (free too!!).  I would like to capture the network traffic from 6:00 AM to 9:00 AM that is related to the Samsung S% and the DIR-857.  I can't sniff the packets over the WiFi because Windows 7 adapters can not go into promiscuous mode.  Therefore, I need the router to mirror all traffic to a LAN port.  To that LAN port, I plan on capturing all the traffic for analysis.

Does the DIR-857 support mirroring OR can you think of a way to configure a forwarding rule that would accomplish the same thing?

[FurryNutz]

Ok, this gives more details to your setup. You have some WiFi signals going on there. What you need to do is to isolate the 857 from all of the other signals first off to test the 857 alone to see if the problem is the 857 or coming from your environment.

I'd disconnect and completely turn OFF ALL other Wifi sources and just tests the 857 by itself with one phone and a wired PC on 2.4Ghz. Run some testing to see how the 857 handles the phone and PC and see if the behavior changes. Test channel 11 first then channel 1 with WPA/WPIK only on G mode then N mode. See if the problem appears. Then try channel 11 with WPA2/AES only and check for problems with phone then graduate adding another phone.

I'd like you to find a laptop cooler and place the router on top of the cooler as well if you can find one. Wal-mart has them for less that $20. Some users mentioned that the router was heating up and causing problems. Cooling fixed this.

Let us know how it goes.

[Dunegoon]

Ok, It will take several days to find the downtime (and time).  I could turn off all WiFi on the 857 and that would unload the DIR-857 and all packets would then approach it via LAN.....

[FurryNutz]

Keep us posted. We'll help you get this figured out...

[Dunegoon]

No failure in several days, perhaps it's over.  I'll check in if there are problems, or after Christmas if not.

[FurryNutz]

Seems like having all those WiFi devices running may have been the cause.

Hope it keeps working well. Good Luck and Merry Christmas. 

[Dunegoon]

As of today, no problems.  Basically, everything is running and running well.  I believe the problem was with the ISP.  I had them come out and they chased down some noise in the cable system and changed some things to give me 3dB more signal.  Plus, as mentioned previously, they had some type of cable failure the week before that that they fixed.

Some good came from all of this.  I got all of my boxes updated firmware and cleaned up the configurations.  I got the ISP to clean up their act.  And I learned more about the capabilities of my D-Link. 

Thanks.

[FurryNutz]

Awesome. Glad its working well now. Enjoy. 

Come back if you need more help and information. Happy New Year.