D-Link Forums
The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => Routers / COVR => DIR-860L => Topic started by: ddunlop07 on October 28, 2013, 04:38:53 PM
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Hello,
Last week I purchased the DLink 860L and was able to set it up with no problems. Almost instantly I noticed a problem with the 2.4GHz channel. I updated the firmware to the newest version 1.04 and the problem still persisted. I am able to connect to the 2.4 wireless, but within hours the wifi drops and I am unable to connect to it unless I restart the router. I ran the wireless setup connection wizard and configured the settings similar to the 5GHz band (which I have no problems with). Any ideas as to why this channel is performing so inconsistently? There are no wireless phones or anything to interfere with the wireless that I know of.
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Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=41537.0)
- What region are you located?
- Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch?
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
- What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
- What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
- What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have?
- Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53008.0)
- For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.
Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0) and Managing Signal Congestion (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53228.0)
- Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Can be anything and not something thats already in use by any neighboring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
- What wireless modes are you using?
- 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz routers: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N on 2.4Ghz and single mode N on 5Ghz?
- Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
- Try setting a manual Channel (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wireless_channel) to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear.
- What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_Encryption_Standard), so you might want to try TPIK (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temporal_Key_Integrity_Protocol) only or Auto TPIK and AES.
- What wireless devices do you have connected?
- Any cordless house phones?
- Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer (http://www.metageek.net/) to find out. How many?
- If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-features/30969-what-do-80211ns-optional-features-mean-for-you), WLAN Partition, HT 20/40 Co-exhistance and Extra Wireless Protection if you have it. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
- Enable WMM Enable (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=50738.0) Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
- Try setting Medium or Low power output settings and test again Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
3rd Party Security Software Configurations
- Turn off all anti virus and firewall programs on PC while testing. 3rd party firewalls are not generally needed when using routers as they are effective on blocking malicious inbound traffic.
- Turn off all devices accept for one wired PC while testing.
Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
6" minimum safe distance between devices.
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I'm located near Detroit, MI. The only factory reset I performed was when I first upgraded to firmware v1.04 after setting up the router. I factory reset and then downgraded to v1.03 and am trying that now.
I changed the SSID from the default to something original.
Right now I'm testing the 2.4 on N only mode, and I have the 5ghz set to mixed ac,n, and a.
I am using wpa-personal security for both channels.
The only devices connecting to the wireless is a laptop and two iphones (One a 5, one a 4).
No cordless housephones.
No other WiFi routers in the area.
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Try w HT 20/40 Co-exhistance disabled...
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Any status on this? Let us know if you need more help...
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I am actually unable to disable ht 20/40 coexistence... I tried switching the 2.4ghz band to g only and set it to channel 11. Been a busy week, though, I do plan on doing some more testing over the weekend. Will keep you updated. Thanks for all the help thus far!
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;) Maybe someone can review your router settings with you using Link> teamviewer (http://www.teamviewer.com) if your interested. Its safe and secure.
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I have EXACTLY the same problem!! Really hope to get it fixed!
I have not update the firmware, maybe I will try that today.
Looking forward to solutions
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Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=41537.0)
- What Hardware version is your router? Look at sticker under router.
- Link>What Firmware (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=47512.0) version is currently loaded? Found on the routers web page under status.
- Has a Factory Reset been performed?
Whare are the distances between the router and wireless clients?
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
- What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
- What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
- What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have?
- Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53008.0)
- For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.
Router and Wired Configurations
Some things to try: - Log into the routers web page at 192.168.0.1. Use IE, Opera or FF to manage the router.
- Turn off ALL QoS (http://vonage.nmhoy.net/qos.html) or Disable Traffic Shaping (DIR only) GameFuel (DGL only and if ON.) options, Advanced/QoS (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quality_of_service) or Gamefuel.
- Turn off Advanced DNS Services if you have this option under Setup/Internet/Manual or under Setup/PARENTAL CONTROL/Set to>None: Static IP or Obtain Automatically From ISP.
- Enable Use Unicasting (compatibility for some ISP DHCP Servers) under Setup/Internet/Manual.
- Turn on DNS Relay under Setup/Networking. Link>Finding Faster DNS Addresses using Name Bench (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53222.0)
- Setup DHCP reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking. This ensures each devices gets its own IP address when turned on and connected, eliminates IP address conflicts and helps in troubleshooting.
- Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address.
- If IPv6 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ipv6) is an option on the router, select Local Connection Only or Disable IPv6 options under Setup/IPv6.
- Set Firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP under Advanced/Firewall. Enable or Disable SPI (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SPI) to test.
- Enable uPnP (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Upnp) and Multi-cast Streaming (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multicast) under Advanced/Networking. Disable uPnP for testing Port Forwarding rules. Enable IPv6 Multi-cast Streaming for routers that have a Media Server option. Disable IPv6 Multi-cast Streaming if IPv6 or Media Server is not being used.
- Turn off WISH, and WPS under Advanced.
- WAN Port Speed set to Auto or specific speed? Some newer ISP modems support 1000Mb so manually setting to Gb speeds can be supported by the router. Advanced/Advanced Networking/WAN Port Speed
- Set current Time Zone, Date and Time. Use an NTP Server (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48695.0) feature. Tools/Time.
- Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAT6)
Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0) and Managing Signal Congestion (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53228.0)
- Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Can be anything and not something thats already in use by any neighboring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
- What wireless modes are you using?
- 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz routers: Try single mode G or N or mixed AC, G and N on 2.4Ghz and single mode N on 5Ghz?
- Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
- Try setting a manual Channel (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wireless_channel) to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear.
- What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_Encryption_Standard), so you might want to try TPIK (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temporal_Key_Integrity_Protocol) only or Auto TPIK and AES.
- What wireless devices do you have connected?
- Any cordless house phones?
- Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer (http://www.metageek.net/) to find out. How many?
- If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-features/30969-what-do-80211ns-optional-features-mean-for-you), WLAN Partition, HT 20/40 Co-exhistance and Extra Wireless Protection if you have it. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
- Enable WMM Enable (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=50738.0) Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
- Try setting Medium or Low power output settings and test again Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
3rd Party Security Software Configurations
- Turn off all anti virus and firewall programs on PC while testing. 3rd party firewalls are not generally needed when using routers as they are effective on blocking malicious inbound traffic.
- Turn off all devices accept for one wired LAN PC while testing.
- Disable any downloading client software managers, i.e. Torrents.
Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
6" minimum safe distance between devices.
I have EXACTLY the same problem!! Really hope to get it fixed!
I have not update the firmware, maybe I will try that today.
Looking forward to solutions
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I actually e-mailed Dlink tech support, and this is what they replied with:
"Please try to unchecked auto channel scan and set a static channel. Please please channel 1, 6, 9 and 11."
AND I THINK IT WORKED..... I am still observing. So far so good!
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Good to hear. That was also mentioned in my initial replay to you as well. Hope it keeps working for you. Come back and visit if you need any more help. Enjoy.
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Helllo,
I have the same problem too.
After a reboot of the router every thing workes fine, but some minutes or hours later it does not.
A Windows XP PC says nothing, just tries to reconnect.
A Samsung Galays S3 mini says authentication fault.
A Samsung Galays S3 says authentication fault.
The router is brand new (1 week in use) and the issue exists since the first day.
I have a Fritz!Box router with WLAN and DECT enabled in an other room separated by a concrete wall, but visible of course to all devices. The Fritz!Box acts as DSL modem, the DLINK is just an access point at the moment.
Any new info on that topic?
thx, Ralf
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Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=41537.0)
- What Hardware version is your router? Look at sticker under router.
- Link>What Firmware (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=47512.0) version is currently loaded? Found on the routers web page under status.
- What region are you located?
- Has a Factory Reset been performed?
Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0) and Managing Signal Congestion (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53228.0)
- Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Can be anything and not something thats already in use by any neighboring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
- What wireless modes are you using?
- 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz routers: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N on 2.4Ghz and single mode N on 5Ghz?
- Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
- Try setting a manual Channel (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wireless_channel) to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear.
- What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_Encryption_Standard), so you might want to try TPIK (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temporal_Key_Integrity_Protocol) only or Auto TPIK and AES.
- What wireless devices do you have connected?
- Any cordless house phones?
- Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer (http://www.metageek.net/) to find out. How many?
- If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-features/30969-what-do-80211ns-optional-features-mean-for-you), WLAN Partition, HT 20/40 Co-exhistance and Extra Wireless Protection if you have it. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
- Enable WMM Enable (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=50738.0) Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
- Try setting Medium or Low power output settings and test again Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
If your only using the 860L in AP mode, please review this:
Turning a router into an AP. (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=40856.0)
Helllo,
I have the same problem too.
After a reboot of the router every thing workes fine, but some minutes or hours later it does not.
A Windows XP PC says nothing, just tries to reconnect.
A Samsung Galays S3 mini says authentication fault.
A Samsung Galays S3 says authentication fault.
The router is brand new (1 week in use) and the issue exists since the first day.
I have a Fritz!Box router with WLAN and DECT enabled in an other room separated by a concrete wall, but visible of course to all devices. The Fritz!Box acts as DSL modem, the DLINK is just an access point at the moment.
Any new info on that topic?
thx, Ralf
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Hardware: A1
Firmware: v1.03
Location : Germany
Factory reset has been performed
>>> Wireless Configurations
>>> ....
Same effect whether switching off/on or reset via web interface: Reset device fixes problem immediately but only for some hours. This means that there is no duplicated SSID or any other issue covered by "Wireless Configurations", isn't it?
Regards
Ralf
btw.
This forum's account settig: Hide email address from public? has no effect in my case.
It was first unset (NO), I then changed it to YES but the mail button next to my postings did not disappear.
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Seem like this could be an environment or interference kind of thing. The router works for a while then seems to stop. This is indicative to something causing the router to stop working on the WiFi.
That mode do your wireless devices support? N mode? any AC mode as well?
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Hi.
I had the same problem, but only with two clients. One is computer with TP-Link TL-WN727N USB wireless card and another is HP Officejet 7500A printer. Other clients (two laptops, one with Intel PRO/Wireless 3945ABG and another with Qualcomm Atheros AR5009 802.11a/g/n wireless adapter) worked with no problem.
After initial setup and firmware update (to version 1.05) i can connect both problematic client, but after 8 hours (next day in the morning) i can't connect anymore. Only router reboot helped.
Router is on table near RaspberryPi, wireless phone and modem are approximately 1m away and the same is true for another electrical devices. Nearest router is 100m-150m (air line) away at my neighbours house. All router settings are on default values except wireless name and password (WPA mode, WPA or WPA2, TKIP and AES)
Then i set fixed channel for both bands (channel 11 in 2.4GHz band and channel 36 in 5GHz band) and mixed 802.11 g and n mode for 2.4GHz band as suggested above. After that it works, no problem with connection.
Can someone explain me why this settings worked? Isn't that something that should work out-of-the-box?
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Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=41537.0)
- What region are you located?
- Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch?
- Was the router working before any firmware updates?
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
- What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
- What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
- What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have?
Could be many things since it's WiFi as there many variables.
- Any cordless house phones?
- Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer (http://www.metageek.net/) to find out. How many?
- If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-features/30969-what-do-80211ns-optional-features-mean-for-you), WLAN Partition, HT 20/40 Co-exhistance and Extra Wireless Protection if you have it. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
6" minimum safe distance between devices.
Hi.
I had the same problem, but only with two clients. One is computer with TP-Link TL-WN727N USB wireless card and another is HP Officejet 7500A printer. Other clients (two laptops, one with Intel PRO/Wireless 3945ABG and another with Qualcomm Atheros AR5009 802.11a/g/n wireless adapter) worked with no problem.
After initial setup and firmware update (to version 1.05) i can connect both problematic client, but after 8 hours (next day in the morning) i can't connect anymore. Only router reboot helped.
Router is on table near RaspberryPi, wireless phone and modem are approximately 1m away and the same is true for another electrical devices. Nearest router is 100m-150m (air line) away at my neighbours house. All router settings are on default values except wireless name and password (WPA mode, WPA or WPA2, TKIP and AES)
Then i set fixed channel for both bands (channel 11 in 2.4GHz band and channel 36 in 5GHz band) and mixed 802.11 g and n mode for 2.4GHz band as suggested above. After that it works, no problem with connection.
Can someone explain me why this settings worked? Isn't that something that should work out-of-the-box?
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Region: EU, country: Slovenia (si)
I had same issue with stock firmware (version 1.01), even after factory reset. Then i installed latest version (1.05), do a factory reset and the issue still persist. Wireless start working properly after i set what i mentioned previously.
My ISP is Ario (i think it's cable thru wireless - i have a dish outside). Modem is Thompson THG540. Connection speed is 1Mb/256kb.
I have cordless house phone approx. 1m away from router (that was i meant previously with wireless phone).
inSSIDer finds only one "router". It's a long range antenna. Signal strength is -90, channel 1, security WEP, 802.11b.
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Does the cordless house phone operation on or near the 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz frequency?
Ensure PC Wireless adapter card drivers are up to date.
If you are using the 860L as an AP, did you follow this for setting it up?
Turning a router into an AP. (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=40856.0)
Region: EU, country: Slovenia (si)
I had same issue with stock firmware (version 1.01), even after factory reset. Then i installed latest version (1.05), do a factory reset and the issue still persist. Wireless start working properly after i set what i mentioned previously.
My ISP is Ario (i think it's cable thru wireless - i have a dish outside). Modem is Thompson THG540. Connection speed is 1Mb/256kb.
I have cordless house phone approx. 1m away from router (that was i meant previously with wireless phone).
inSSIDer finds only one "router". It's a long range antenna. Signal strength is -90, channel 1, security WEP, 802.11b.
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First cordless phone is Philips CD 150 and it's connected to another one (Panasonic KX-TG1100FX) downstairs. Both operate at frequency range from 1.88 GHz to 1.9 GHz.
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Should be ok then...
First cordless phone is Philips CD 150 and it's connected to another one (Panasonic KX-TG1100FX) downstairs. Both operate at frequency range from 1.88 GHz to 1.9 GHz.
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I've seen some apparent instability in 2.4GHz wireless connections to this router when I had the 2.4GHz channel width set to 20/40 MHz Auto. There's a coexistence mechanism defined in 802.11n where if the router detects other APs active using the other part of the 40 MHz channel it's supposed to stop using 40 MHz to prevent occupying too much of the band. I suspect that in some cases it flip-flops between 40 MHz on and off and causes disruptions to the wireless connections. Things seem more stable on 2.4 with the channel width set to 20 MHz.
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I recommend that if users have a N mode only envrionment and client devices to support N mode only and there are other neighboring WiFi around, You can disable the HT20/40Mhz Co-existence feature and run Auto 20/40Mhz.
Also review this:
Managing Signal Congestion (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53228.0) and Good Neighbour Policy (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=10634.0)
I've seen some apparent instability in 2.4GHz wireless connections to this router when I had the 2.4GHz channel width set to 20/40 MHz Auto. There's a coexistence mechanism defined in 802.11n where if the router detects other APs active using the other part of the 40 MHz channel it's supposed to stop using 40 MHz to prevent occupying too much of the band. I suspect that in some cases it flip-flops between 40 MHz on and off and causes disruptions to the wireless connections. Things seem more stable on 2.4 with the channel width set to 20 MHz.