D-Link Forums
The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => Routers / COVR => DIR-880L => Topic started by: IShotBambi on January 19, 2017, 05:32:59 PM
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For the first month the router worked amazing but for the past couple months it's been disconnecting my Xbox One. I have multiple devices connected Via Wifi including 2 other Xbox One's but it seems to only kick THIS Xbox One off. Sometimes it will go for a couple weeks with no problems and then as of the past 2 days it will randomly disconnect my Xbox while keeping all other devices connected. The Xbox recognizes the router but cannot connect to it. The router seems to connect when it's "ready" like it's got a mind of its own.
I've even tried port forwarding which improved connection but it still drops it at complete random. Reconnecting can take anywhere from 10 seconds to over an hour. Xbox one is saying it's possible the router is blocking the MAC address. Just find it strange that this is the only device that's having issues.
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Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48135.0)
- What Hardware version is your router? Look at sticker under the router case.
- Link>What Firmware (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=47512.0) version is currently loaded? Found on the routers web page under status.
- What region are you located?
How are the XB1s connected? Wired or wireless? WIRED is preferred for any game console.
If wireless, which radio is the XB1s connected? 2.4 or 5ghz?
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
- What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
- What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
- Is ISP Modem/Service using Dynamic or Static WAN IP addressing?
- What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have? Link> Speed Testing Sites (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48352.0)
- By-pass the main host router and check internet connection by connecting a wired LAN PC directly to the ISP modem to verify connection access and ISP speeds.
- Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAT6)
- Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53008.0)
- For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.
- If the ISP modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems: Link>Double NAT (http://www.practicallynetworked.com/networking/fixing_double_nat.htm) and How NAT Works (http://computer.howstuffworks.com/nat.htm). Call the ISP and ask to see if the ISP modem can be bridged. To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged. If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ (http://www.dslreports.com/shownews/Networking-101-The-DMZ-137550). Also check the routers DHCP IP address maybe conflicting with the ISP modems IP address of 192.168.0.1. Check to see if this is the same on the ISP modem, and if modem can't be bridged, change the DIR router to 192.168.1.1 or .0.254.
Example of a D-Link router configured for PPPoE with ISP Modem bridged: PPPoE Configuration on a Router (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=56344.msg219023#msg219023)
Router and Wired Configurations
Some things to try: - Log into the routers web page at 192.168.0.1. Use IE, Opera or FF to manage the router. Besure to log into the Admin account on the router.
- Enable or Disable Use Unicasting (compatibility for some ISP DHCP Servers) and test under Setup/Internet/Manual. Disable may help with speed performance on higher speed ISP services.
- Turn on or off DNS Relay (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=45143.0) under Setup/Networking. Link>Finding Faster DNS Addresses using Name Bench (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53222.0) and input new DNS addresses under Setup/Internet/Manual.
- Setup DHCP (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=58017.0) reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking. This ensures each devices gets its own IP address when turned on and connected, eliminates IP address conflicts and helps in troubleshooting and maintain consistency for applications that need to connect as well as mapped drives.
- Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address.
- If IPv6 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ipv6) is an option on the router, select Local Connection Only under Setup/IPv6.
- Enable uPnP (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Upnp)
- WAN Port Speed set to Auto or specific speed? Some newer ISP modems support 1000Mb so manually setting to Gb speeds can be supported by the router. Advanced/Advanced Networking/WAN Port Speed
>WAN and LAN Connection Rates and ISP Speeds FAQ (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=63449.0)
Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0) and Managing Signal Congestion (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53228.0) and Good Neighbour Policy (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=10634.0)
- What wireless modes are you using?
- 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz routers: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N on 2.4Ghz and single mode N or AC on 5Ghz?
- Try setting a manual Channel (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wireless_channels) to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions. Try channel 48 or 149 on 5Ghz.
- What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal.
- Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by that maybe causing interference's?
- Any other WiFi routers in the area that maybe causing interference's? Link> Use a WiFi Scanner (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0) to find out. How many?
- For routers with Smart Connect Technology (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=62072.0) , try disabling this feature and test. Under Wireless.
Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.
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I'm a complete novice at all of this but I provide what I can
Hardware version: A2
Firmware version: 1.07WW
Region: East? Florida
2 xbox's and other devices are connected Wireless. All on 2.4ghz
DSL
Speed test: Down speed 23.20mbps, Up speed 19.82 mbps
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Try using 5Ghz for the XB1s or even wired LAN cable would be best.
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Any status on this? ???
I'm a complete novice at all of this but I provide what I can
Hardware version: A2
Firmware version: 1.07WW
Region: East? Florida
2 xbox's and other devices are connected Wireless. All on 2.4ghz
DSL
Speed test: Down speed 23.20mbps, Up speed 19.82 mbps
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Any status on this? ???
I'm a complete novice at all of this but I provide what I can
Hardware version: A2
Firmware version: 1.07WW
Region: East? Florida
2 xbox's and other devices are connected Wireless. All on 2.4ghz
DSL
Speed test: Down speed 23.20mbps, Up speed 19.82 mbps
I still get connection drops. I've sort of found a way around it. When my xbox drops connection I turn it off and then I turn my phone wifi to off. I then turn my wifi on my phone to on and then turn my xbox on. Some what placing them in a different order. Now my xbox will have a stable connection but my phone wifi will drop. It's not as bad since I don't need a continuous connection to use my phone. Still frustrating that I have to do this every time. Especially since this is a $150 router and my previous 8 year old router did a better job. I actually don't remember it ever dropping connection.
Recently for some odd reason, the signal strength has dropped dramatically in my room. I'll get 1 bar on my phone most of the time compared to the first couple months of getting close to full bars. I'm thinking of buying another router and using it as a bridge for my xbox but until this signal dropping is fixed I'm going to hold off on wasting more money.
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What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
Is Smart Connect enabled or disabled?
I recommend updating to v1.08WW. I had mine online last week and didn't see any issues with it's wireless and connections. I have many devices online however I didn't test xbox as I'm not a fan of playing via wireless with gaming. I can test wireless if I need too.
Update and let us know...
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I have Comcast DSL.
Smart connect is disabled.
Also, my firmware version is 1.07ww. I checked for updates and it said there wasn't any. I'm assuming I'll have to manually do it?
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What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
Yes, manually install v1.08:
http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=65883.0 (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=65883.0)
Please follow the FW update process...
After the last factory reset and setup from scratch, test the xbox with smart connect enabled first.
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model #: TG1682G
What and where is the MFR?
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Is this your ISP modem? http://www.arris.com/products/touchstone-telephony-gateway-tg1672/
(http://www.arris.com/products/touchstone-telephony-gateway-tg1672/)
If the ISP modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems: Link>Double NAT (http://www.practicallynetworked.com/networking/fixing_double_nat.htm) and How NAT Works (http://computer.howstuffworks.com/nat.htm). Call the ISP and ask to see if the ISP modem can be bridged. To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged. If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ (http://www.dslreports.com/shownews/Networking-101-The-DMZ-137550). Also check the routers DHCP IP address maybe conflicting with the ISP modems IP address of 192.168.0.1. Check to see if this is the same on the ISP modem, and if modem can't be bridged, change the DIR router to 192.168.1.1 or .0.254.
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FYI, I hooked up my xb1 last night on wireless to the 880L, played for about 1.5 hours on BO3. No issues seen during game play.
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Is this your ISP modem? http://www.arris.com/products/touchstone-telephony-gateway-tg1672/
(http://www.arris.com/products/touchstone-telephony-gateway-tg1672/)
If the ISP modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems: Link>Double NAT (http://www.practicallynetworked.com/networking/fixing_double_nat.htm) and How NAT Works (http://computer.howstuffworks.com/nat.htm). Call the ISP and ask to see if the ISP modem can be bridged. To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged. If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ (http://www.dslreports.com/shownews/Networking-101-The-DMZ-137550). Also check the routers DHCP IP address maybe conflicting with the ISP modems IP address of 192.168.0.1. Check to see if this is the same on the ISP modem, and if modem can't be bridged, change the DIR router to 192.168.1.1 or .0.254.
Since turning on the smart connect, the connection drops have stopped. Called comcast and they said there was a weak signal to our modem so I guess they added speed??? That's what they told me. Idk how they could add speed if we have the fast available. Anyways, I added a range extender. Not sure about the specs. It was just given to me out of box. It worked flawlessly for a week before the speeds dropped. Will try to connect my xbox to the extender via ethernet and see how that goes.
My connection is perfectly fine with all the games except for NHL17 which I play 90% of the time. It requires a very strong connection. I've had people tell me it's not even worth playing on wifi. Unfortunately, comcast said the modem can only be hooked up to one part of the house where they have the line at.
I also downloaded a wifi analyzer and there is many devices on the same channel as my router. Channel 6. I looked online on how to change it. Settings, wireless, advance settings... but the channel option isn't there.
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I would suggest getting a LAN wire connection to the xbox.
However if the new settings and such are working for now, see how it goes.
Ya, if yo use a lot of other wifi sources using the same channel, I'd see if you can change the xbox to use 5Ghz if the range is short and kind of close.
I tested my xbox on wifi and worked well however router and xbox were with in 3 feet of each other. ::)
After testing, I've gone back to LAN wired.
Something else to consider, might look into some DHP-701 PowerLine units between the router and xbox. The 701s are Gb supporting so should have good performance handling for gaming.
Any chance of someone putting in some CAT6 lan cabling in the attic?