D-Link Forums
The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => Routers / COVR => DIR-615 => Topic started by: tvance on April 26, 2013, 02:35:55 PM
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Hi there!
My parents have been experiencing problems with their wireless connection for more than a year. Sometimes the connection works, sometimes it drops and they have to manually reconnect, and sometimes when they try to reconnect they are not able to connect (even though the network signal is strong enough).
When I bring my laptop home, I normally don't experience issues with the wireless, although lately I've been dropping the connection as well (not as often as my parents' laptop).
Sometimes my iPod has issues too. I'll try to connect and it says "Unable to join the network" and then later it will work.
Parents' Laptop:
Acer Aspire 5534
Broadcom 802.11n Network Adapter
Windows 7 x64
My Laptop:
HP Pavilion
Intel Wifi Link 5100 AGN
Windows 7 x64
When either laptop is plugged directly into the router by ethernet it works perfectly.
Things I have tried:
1. Reinstalled and updated the network adapter drivers
2. Factory reset of the router
3. Installed the newest firmware I found for DIR 615 (9.02)
4. Changed the channel from auto to 6
5. Changed the broadcast type from mixed bgn to mixed gn, just g, just n
I'm not very good with networking, and I'm really not sure what more I can try to figure out what's going on. Any help is much appreciated!
Also, just a note, my parents were experiencing issues before I bought this router, and I bought a new one (DIR 615) thinking the old router was fried. So I don't think think the router itself is malfunctioning, but maybe there is some sort of setting I'm completely missing? I really have no idea. I'm pretty sure it's not my parents' network card though because I do see issues with other devices, just nowhere near as frequent.
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Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=41537.0)
What region are you located?
Has a Factory Reset been performed?
What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
What ISP Modem make and model do you have?
Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask.
Some things to try: - Log into the routers web page at 192.168.0.1. Use IE, Opera or FF to manage the router.
Turn off ALL QoS (http://vonage.nmhoy.net/qos.html) or Disable Traffic Shaping (DIR only) GameFuel (DGL only and if ON.) options. Advanced/QoS or Gamefuel.
Turn off Advanced DNS Services if you have this option under Setup/Internet/Manual.
Turn on DNS Relay under Setup/Networking.
Setup DHCP reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking. This ensures each devices gets its own IP address when turned on and connected, eliminates IP address conflicts and helps in troubleshooting.
Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address.
If IPv6 is an option on the router, select Local Connection Only or Disable IPv6 options under Setup/IPv6.
Set Firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP under Advanced/Firewall.
Enable uPnP and Multi-cast Streaming under Advanced/Networking. Disable uPnP for testing Port Forwarding rules.
WAN Port Speed set to Auto or specific speed? Some newer ISP modems support 1000Mb so manually setting to Gb speeds can be supported by the router. Advanced/Advanced Networking/WAN Port Speed
Set current Time Zone, Date and Time. Use an NTP server feature. Tools/Time.
Link>Wireless Installation Considerations (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0)
Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
Try setting a manual channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear.
What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto.
Any cordless house phones?
Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer (http://www.metageek.net/) to find out. How many?
Turn off WISH, and WPS under Advanced.
Try turning off Short GI, WLAN Partition,and Extra Wireless Protection if you have it. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
Enable WMM Enable (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=50738.0) Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
Turn off all anti virus and firewall programs on PC while testing. 3rd party firewalls are not generally needed when using routers as they are effective on blocking malicious inbound traffic.
Turn off all devices accept for one wired PC while testing.
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Thank you very much for the reply!
To answer your initial questions:
I'm located in Hamilton area, Ontario, Canada.
I have tried a factory reset.
My ISP service is cable from Cogeco.
The modem is an RCA DHG525.
MTU is 1500.
Yes we have cordless house phones- Uniden Dect 6.0
InSSIDer tells me there are 5 others in the area, and 2 cochannel, 2 overlapping.
I'll work on your suggestions and let you know how things go.
Thanks!
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Okay so I've done everything in your list of suggestions except:
-disabling gamefuel
-setting the firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP
-IPv6 options
-disabling uPnPfor testing Port Forwarding rules
-disabling WISH
because I didn't see those options.
Current speed is set to auto.
Security right now is WPA-personal, WPA2/AES only, but it has been on WPA-personal, auto/TKIP and AES previously.
Channel width right now is 20Mhz only, but has been set to auto before.
Trying Broadcast Mode N only on channel 11 right now. InSSIDer says no one is using that channel around me.
I'll see if the problem recurs with these settings!
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Keep us posted. Have a good weekend.
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Both the computers have dropped the connection a couple times since changing the settings.
This last time I noticed the network disappeared entirely from the list of available network connections for a while before reconnecting. Sometimes it just drops and reconnects right away, and other times I can't reconnect at all (error message).
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Try setting Medium or Low power output settings and test again Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
Are the house cordless phones on a 2.4Ghz frequency?
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Thanks I'll try that.
And no the house phones operate at 1.9Ghz.
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Ok, keep us posted.
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I have had dropped connections with both medium and low settings as well (on both laptops).
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Is your model 615 a Rev I1 or I2 or I3?
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I1 I believe. Well on the admin page it says Hardware Version: I1 in the top right corner next to the firmware version. Is that what you're asking for?
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There is a v9.03 here:http://tsd.dlink.com.tw/downloads2008.asp (http://tsd.dlink.com.tw/downloads2008.asp)
You could try this.
Please follow this after you download the FW update file:
FW Update Process (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=42457.0)
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Thanks, don't know how I didn't see that firmware version.
Followed the instructions in the link you gave me, and I'll see how it goes!
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Not sure why they didn't post it officially on the main web site.
Give it a go and keep us posted. ;)
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Unfortunately it has happened again (Although it does seem to be less frequent).
Anything else I could try?
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Try setting a manual channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear.
Use InSSIDer app to find out which one of these channels is not being used if one of them is open.
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Still the same. No one else is using my channel and it's still not working properly. Do you think the router might just be defective?
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Do you client devices work on other Wifi routers by chance>? If so, then possible that the 615 is bad and needs to be RMAd
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I am having the very same problem. Since I got the router at Christmas I have been on the phone several times with D-Link customer service. They have suggested tweaks and pokes, but nothing has worked. Everyday I have to replug the router at least five times to reestablish the internet connection on both the desk top and iPad.
The point of purchase tells me I would have to send the router directly to D-Link (after one month that's the deal).
Help!!
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Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=41537.0)
What Hardware version is your router? Look at sticker under router.
Link>What Firmware (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=47512.0) version is currently loaded? Found on routers web page under status.
What region are you located?
Are you wired or wireless connected to the router?
Has a Factory Reset been performed?
What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53008.0)
For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.
Some things to try: - Log into the routers web page at 192.168.0.1. Use IE, Opera or FF to manage the router.
Turn off ALL QoS (http://vonage.nmhoy.net/qos.html) or Disable Traffic Shaping (DIR only) GameFuel (DGL only and if ON.) options. Advanced/QoS or Gamefuel.
Turn off Advanced DNS Services if you have this option under Setup/Internet/Manual or under Setup/PARENTAL CONTROL/Set to>None: Static IP or Obtain Automatically From ISP.
Enable Use Unicasting (compatibility for some ISP DHCP Servers) under Setup/Internet/Manual.
Turn on DNS Relay under Setup/Networking. Link>Finding Faster DNS Addresses using Name Bench (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53222.0)
Setup DHCP reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking. This ensures each devices gets its own IP address when turned on and connected, eliminates IP address conflicts and helps in troubleshooting.
Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address.
If IPv6 is an option on the router, select Local Connection Only or Disable IPv6 options under Setup/IPv6.
Set Firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP under Advanced/Firewall.
Enable uPnP and Multi-cast Streaming under Advanced/Networking. Disable uPnP for testing Port Forwarding rules.
Turn off WISH, and WPS under Advanced.
Set current Time Zone, Date and Time. Use an NTP Server (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48695.0) feature. Tools/Time.
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0) and Managing Signal Congestion (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53228.0)
Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Can be anything and not something thats already in use by any neighboring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
What wireless modes are you using?
2.4Ghz Routers only: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
Try setting a manual channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear.
What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_Encryption_Standard), so you might want to try TPIK (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temporal_Key_Integrity_Protocol) only or Auto.
What wireless devices do you have connected?
Any cordless house phones?
Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer (http://www.metageek.net/) to find out. How many?
Try turning off Short GI (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-features/30969-what-do-80211ns-optional-features-mean-for-you), WLAN Partition,and Extra Wireless Protection if you have it. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
Enable WMM Enable (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=50738.0) Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
Turn off all anti virus and firewall programs on PC while testing. 3rd party firewalls are not generally needed when using routers as they are effective on blocking malicious inbound traffic.
Turn off all devices accept for one wired PC while testing.
Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAT6)
I am having the very same problem. Since I got the router at Christmas I have been on the phone several times with D-Link customer service. They have suggested tweaks and pokes, but nothing has worked. Everyday I have to replug the router at least five times to reestablish the internet connection on both the desk top and iPad.
The point of purchase tells me I would have to send the router directly to D-Link (after one month that's the deal).
Help!!
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Do you client devices work on other Wifi routers by chance>? If so, then possible that the 615 is bad and needs to be RMAd
Well my ipod and laptop haven't had many problems elsewhere.
I'm going to try hooking up my old router and see if it's the same. I seem to remember having the same problems with it though, which is why I bought the 615 in the first place. But that was a while ago. I'll see what happens!
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So it is the exact same issue with my old router.
Isn't it weird that both routers have the same problem? I wonder if it is somehow my modem... But when I'm plugged into the router's LAN port everything is fine.
I have no idea :(
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If you can respond to the questions presented in my reply to you, maybe we can help you narrow down what the problem could be. The more information we know about your situation and setup, the better we have an idea of what is going on and provide you with better feed back.
So it is the exact same issue with my old router.
Isn't it weird that both routers have the same problem? I wonder if it is somehow my modem... But when I'm plugged into the router's LAN port everything is fine.
I have no idea :(
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If you can respond to the questions presented in my reply to you, maybe we can help you narrow down what the problem could be. The more information we know about your situation and setup, the better we have an idea of what is going on and provide you with better feed back.
Sorry, what reply? The big post you just made was directed toward DCMontreal right? I answered those questions when I first posted.
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Sorry I got lost in the thread. I apologize. ::)
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Maybe someone can review your router settings with you using Link> teamviewer (http://www.teamviewer.com) if your interested. Its safe and secure.
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No problem!
I think that would be really helpful. I installed TeamViewer
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Let me know a time frame and we can have a look...
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Any day after 3:30pm (EST) works for me.
Let me know!
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Send me a PM with the ID and PW when your ready...
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I can't thank you enough for your help FurryNutz :)
For anyone else reading, he added a manual uplink speed of 2Mbps in the router settings, disabled HT20/40Mhz Coexistence, and changed to n-only mode with WPA2 and AES (which now magically works with my WD Live box; previously it didn't).
Also, we changed a property called "802.11n Channel Width for band 2.4" in my laptops adaptor's advanced configuration settings from "20 MHz only" to "Auto" which has improved its performance, and may have somehow been affecting the rest of the network.
Anyway, I'll monitor my connections and we'll see if the problem is solved!
Thanks again for your time!
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Glad to be of help.
Enjoy. ;)
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I hate to say it, but I've been having more connectivity issues :(
The problem seems to be a bit different now though.
I'll be connected to the internet with no problems, when suddenly I will be disconnected. I can reconnect to the network, but there is no internet access (or it will say "Limited Access"), and it says I am connected to an "Unknown Network". When I ran the Windows troubleshooter on one occasion it eventually told me "Unknown Network does not have a valid IP configuration". The problem persists until I unplug the router and plug it back in.
Thanks for any help!
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Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
- What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
- What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
- If this modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems: Link>Double NAT (http://www.practicallynetworked.com/networking/fixing_double_nat.htm) and How NAT Works (http://cognitiveanomalies.com/cisco-nat-how-nat-works/). To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged. If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ.
- Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53008.0)
- For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.
Also ensure that if your using a Cable ISP service, that the cable line condition is good going into the ISP modem. Have the ISP check this physically. Have them ensure the Signal going to the ISP modem is to spec. Have then test from your location, not theres. If there is any TV line splitters on the cable line, remove them as they can lower the signal and introduce noise on the line. Dedicated Cable Internet line is preferred. If your on DSL, ensure the phone lines are in good working condition and set up well and filtered.
I hate to say it, but I've been having more connectivity issues :(
The problem seems to be a bit different now though.
I'll be connected to the internet with no problems, when suddenly I will be disconnected. I can reconnect to the network, but there is no internet access (or it will say "Limited Access"), and it says I am connected to an "Unknown Network". When I ran the Windows troubleshooter on one occasion it eventually told me "Unknown Network does not have a valid IP configuration". The problem persists until I unplug the router and plug it back in.
Thanks for any help!
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I have Cable.
Modem is RCA DHG525. It doesn't have a built in router.
I'll have to call my ISP then and see if it's anything on their end. (They'll definitely say no :p)
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
- What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
- What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
- If this modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems: Link>Double NAT (http://www.practicallynetworked.com/networking/fixing_double_nat.htm) and How NAT Works (http://cognitiveanomalies.com/cisco-nat-how-nat-works/). To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged. If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ.
- Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53008.0)
- For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.
Also ensure that if your using a Cable ISP service, that the cable line condition is good going into the ISP modem. Have the ISP check this physically. Have them ensure the Signal going to the ISP modem is to spec. Have then test from your location, not theres. If there is any TV line splitters on the cable line, remove them as they can lower the signal and introduce noise on the line. Dedicated Cable Internet line is preferred. If your on DSL, ensure the phone lines are in good working condition and set up well and filtered.
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The one main reason external routers exhibit this would be a loss of signal or ISP modem connection or router is not getting data flow from the ISP modem.
Keep us posted.
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I also recommend asking your ISP for a newer or updated ISP modem. Sure is hard to find good details about your current model and I believe it's somewhat old, est 3 years. If your ISP supports you having your own ISP modem, I recommend buying a Motorola SB 6121 or 6141.
Also check cables between the ISP modem and router. Use CAT6 cabling.