D-Link Forums
The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => Routers / COVR => DIR-601 => Topic started by: bradliff on June 05, 2015, 09:10:07 AM
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I have a DIR-601 (H/W: A1, F/W: 1.04NA). The connection will drop from time to time with no rhyme or reason. When it drops, devices will lose internet for about 20-30 seconds... and this will happen - when it's at its worst - every 10 minutes, give or take a few. It's terribly annoying to say the least. I took the router out of the mix for a while the other night - running an ethernet straight from the modem to the desktop - and scrolled through Facebook for a while and then watched a few things on Netflix with no hang-ups. Which leads me to believe it's the router. But I'm no tech expert so I can't be sure. Any help you can provide before I go buy another router would be great. If the 601 should still be fine these days, I'd obviously rather not have to buy a new one. Here's info requested of another user in a previous thread:
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL? --Cable
What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have? --D-Link DCM-202
Is ISP Modem/Service using Dynamic or Static WAN IP addressing? --Don't know??
Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended. --Labeling says it's CAT-5e
Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values --Don't know??
For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled. --Looked for this and couldn't find it.
BTW, it's not a constant problem. Like right now, I'm streaming Netflix in the background as I type all of this with no problems. Frustrating. Help.
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Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48135.0)
- What region are you located?
- Are you wired or wireless connected to the router? Does this happen wired and wireless?
Router and Wired Configurations
Some things to try: - Log into the routers web page at 192.168.0.1. Use IE, Opera or FF to manage the router. Besure to log into the Admin account on the router.
- Turn off ALL QoS (http://vonage.nmhoy.net/qos.html) or Disable Traffic Shaping (DIR only) GameFuel (DGL only and if ON.) options, Advanced/QoS (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quality_of_service) or Gamefuel.
- Turn off Advanced DNS Services if you have this option under Setup/Internet/Manual or under Setup/PARENTAL CONTROL/Set to>None: Static IP or Obtain Automatically From ISP.
- Enable or Disable Use Unicasting (compatibility for some ISP DHCP Servers) and test under Setup/Internet/Manual. Disable may help with speed performance on higher speed ISP services.
- Turn on or off DNS Relay (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=45143.0) under Setup/Networking. Link>Finding Faster DNS Addresses using Name Bench (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53222.0) and input new DNS addresses under Setup/Internet/Manual.
- Setup DHCP (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=58017.0) reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking. This ensures each devices gets its own IP address when turned on and connected, eliminates IP address conflicts and helps in troubleshooting and maintain consistency for applications that need to connect as well as mapped drives.
- Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address.
- If IPv6 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ipv6) is an option on the router, select Local Connection Only under Setup/IPv6.
- Set Firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP under Advanced/Firewall. Enable or Disable SPI (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SPI) to test.
- Enable uPnP (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Upnp) and Multi-cast Streaming (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multicast) under Advanced/Networking. Disable uPnP for testing Port Forwarding (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=4235.0) rules. Enable IPv6 Multi-cast Streaming for routers that have a Media Server option. Disable IPv6 Multi-cast Streaming if IPv6 or Media Server is not being used.
- Turn off WISH (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=40459.0), and WPS under Advanced.
- WAN Port Speed set to Auto or specific speed? Some newer ISP modems support 1000Mb so manually setting to Gb speeds can be supported by the router. Advanced/Advanced Networking/WAN Port Speed
- Set current Time Zone, Date and Time. Use an NTP Server (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48695.0) feature. The DST setting is only needed in the NA region. Tools/Time.
Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0) and Managing Signal Congestion (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53228.0) and Good Neighbour Policy (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=10634.0)
- Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Ensure that different SSID names are used between each WiFi 2.4/5Ghz radios. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighbouring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
- What wireless modes are you using?
- 2.4Ghz Routers only: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
- Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz
- Try setting a manual Channel (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wireless_channels) to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions.
- What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_Encryption_Standard), so you might want to try TPIK (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temporal_Key_Integrity_Protocol) only or Auto TPIK and AES.
- What wireless devices do you have connected?
- Ensure any devices with WiFi adapter drivers are updated.
- Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by that maybe causing interferences?
- Any other WiFi routers in the area that maybe causing interferences? Link> Use InSSIDer (http://www.techspot.com/downloads/5936-inssider.html) to find out. How many? Use v3, its free.
- If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-features/30969-what-do-80211ns-optional-features-mean-for-you), WLAN Partition, Extra Wireless Protection and HT 20/40 Co-existence if you have it. Also testing with HT20/40Mhz Co-existence enabled will impact results as well. I prefer to use this option OFF. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.
Placement on main level floor and central in the building and WELL ventilated is preferred. Not in basements or closets as building materials, or near by electronics devices could interfere or hinder good signal propagation.
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-basics/31083-smallnetbuilders-wireless-faq-the-essentials (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-basics/31083-smallnetbuilders-wireless-faq-the-essentials)
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I answered 3 of your 4 initial questions in my original post above.
Hardware: A1
Firmware: 1.04NA
Region: if you mean physical location, I live in Elgin, IL
Wired/Wireless: I'm normally experiencing it when wireless. I does not seem to happen when I went wired to the modem. I believe I recall trying to go wired to the router a while back and had the same periodical drops.
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Please give feedback on the wireless questions presented...possible wireless or environment issue that needs to be narrowed down.
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Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Ensure that different SSID names are used between each WiFi 2.4/5Ghz radios. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighbouring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual. --Has been changed
What wireless modes are you using? --Not EXACTLY sure what you mean by this-802.11 Mode:11gn, Security Mode:AUTO (WPA or WPA2) - PSK
2.4Ghz Routers only: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz --20
Try setting a manual Channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions.
What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto TPIK and AES. --AUTO (WPA or WPA2) - PSK
What wireless devices do you have connected? --iMac, iPhone(x2), iPad, Vizio Smart LED TV, Sony Blu Ray Player (not all at the same time, of course)
Ensure any devices with WiFi adapter drivers are updated. --Yes
Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by that maybe causing interferences? --No
Any other WiFi routers in the area that maybe causing interferences? Link> Use InSSIDer to find out. How many? Use v3, its free. --We live in a townehome neighborhood so my computer sees about 8 or 9 other wifi signals
If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI, WLAN Partition, Extra Wireless Protection and HT 20/40 Co-existence if you have it. Also testing with HT20/40Mhz Co-existence enabled will impact results as well. I prefer to use this option OFF. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless. --Advanced settings should all be default as I set it up simply under the 'wizard'
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Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Ensure that different SSID names are used between each WiFi 2.4/5Ghz radios. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighbouring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual. --Has been changed
What wireless modes are you using? --Not EXACTLY sure what you mean by this-802.11 Mode:11gn, Security Mode:AUTO (WPA or WPA2) - PSK <Try WPA2 only.
2.4Ghz Routers only: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz --20 <Set for Auto 20/40Mhz
Try setting a manual Channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions. <You'll need to adjust the router to a channel thats not being used, hopefully 1, 6 or 11.
What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto TPIK and AES. --AUTO (WPA or WPA2) - PSK
What wireless devices do you have connected? --iMac, iPhone(x2), iPad, Vizio Smart LED TV, Sony Blu Ray Player (not all at the same time, of course)
Ensure any devices with WiFi adapter drivers are updated. --Yes
Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by that maybe causing interferences? --No
Any other WiFi routers in the area that maybe causing interferences? Link> Use InSSIDer to find out. How many? Use v3, its free. --We live in a townehome neighborhood so my computer sees about 8 or 9 other wifi signals <This could be the source of your disconnections. What channels are the neighboring WiFi using? You'll need to adjust the router to a channel thats not being used, hopefully 1, 6 or 11.
If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI, WLAN Partition, Extra Wireless Protection and HT 20/40 Co-existence if you have it. Also testing with HT20/40Mhz Co-existence enabled will impact results as well. I prefer to use this option OFF. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless. --Advanced settings should all be default as I set it up simply under the 'wizard'
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I've changed the settings you suggested in your last post. I'll monitor it for a couple of days and see if the problem is still there. Thanks for the help so far.
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Let us know how it goes... ;)
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With those changes made earlier in the day, it just dropped connection 3 times in the last 15 minutes. :/
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What channel did u chg to?
Can u post a picture of the InSSIDer results please
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Changed the channel to 11.
InSSIDer won't work. I have OSx 10.6.8 and it says it's compatible starting with 10.8.
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I'm leaning toward getting a new router. It's cutting out all the time now. And the 601 doesn't have great range in our house as it is. :-\
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One last thing to try:
- Try setting Medium or Low power output settings and test again Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
I'm thinking that your surroundings are wifi congested and this model router can't handle it.
I recommend getting into a DIR-655, 636, 820L, 826L or if you can afford one, DIR-868L. I really like the 868L and has good power handling on the WiFi.
Please check the D-Link store for some some routers.
http://store.digitalriver.com/store/dlink/en_US/DisplayCategoryProductListPage/ThemeID.684500/categoryID.17936100 (http://store.digitalriver.com/store/dlink/en_US/DisplayCategoryProductListPage/ThemeID.684500/categoryID.17936100)
I see that nothing is listed. I'll find out why there isn't anything. There was some earlier this week. :-\
If you need some help in finding a router, please ask questions. We hope we can help you find a good one.
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Recommendations for good range? If want capable coverage for 3 floors of a townehouse. Don't need huge abilities for gaming or tons of devices right now. Small family that streams online video and normal browsing. Thanks.
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if you have 2-3 floors you may need the DIR-868L. If you can place the unit on the center or main floor, you should get good coverage thru out.
What is the sq footage of this place?
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I think approx. 2000 sq. ft. Wasn't looking to spend quite that much. Right now I have our router placement on the main floor (basement below, bedrooms above).
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What is your price point?
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$70-$80 if I can get good coverage with that. I'd even go for a good solid middle of the road, up to date router that's less expensive... and then get something that boosts range. Don't know if that's an option... Right now, the 601 - until it stopped being reliable - worked well for our bandwidth needs but the Enders of the house were sketchy range-wise... And we don't have a huge house.
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Well if you think you can get into a DIR-868L you could find one on amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00C9VB318/ref=sr_1_1_olp?ie=UTF8&qid=1433617359&sr=8-1&keywords=DIR-868L&condition=used (http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00C9VB318/ref=sr_1_1_olp?ie=UTF8&qid=1433617359&sr=8-1&keywords=DIR-868L&condition=used)
I did find the new D-Link store and some refurbs if your interested as well:
http://shop.us.dlink.com/store/shop-oulet/certified-refurbished.html (http://shop.us.dlink.com/store/shop-oulet/certified-refurbished.html)
Middle of the road could be the DIR-850L. IT would be on the cheap if you got a refurb. If you can stretch it, I recommend the DIR-868L though. ;)
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What are the main differences between 850L and 868L?
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850L:
Next Generation 11AC Wi-Fi: Up to 300 + 867Mbps
Simultaneous Dual Band: Delivers faster Wi-Fi speeds and less interference for maximum throughput
Your Personal Cloud: Access your content – anywhere, anytime, on almost any device – with mydlink SharePort
Gigabit Wired: Delivers wired performance 10x faster than traditional Fast Ethernet
Compatibility: Works with existing and future Wi-Fi devices
868L:
Next Generation 11AC Wi-Fi: Up to 450 + 1300Mbps
Simultaneous Dual Band: Delivers faster Wi-Fi speeds and less interference for maximum throughput
AC SmartBeam: Provides stronger, clearer and faster Wi-Fi by locating and focusing bandwidth to your devices
Your Personal Cloud: Access your content – anywhere, anytime, on almost any device – with mydlink SharePort
Gigabit Ethernet: Delivers wired performance 10x faster than traditional Fast Ethernet
USB 3.0: Up to 10x faster than USB 2.0
Compatibility: Works with existing and future Wi-Fi devices